As of the third week of March, 2011, access to Hierve el Agua has improved dramatically, almost to pre-dispute levels. You can get right to San Lorenzo Albarradas using the brand new highway, with a bit of ingenuity and circumventing a couple of little blockades. You get a preview of what the new highway will be like once finished and opened to the coast.
There is no longer a manned toll gate at the San Lorenzo cemetery. The only glitch is that there is still a chain up at the approach to the site, at San Isidro Roaguia, meaning that you must leave your car and either walk the 15 minutes, or try to get a pickup or taxi to take you for a small fee. On the return it's pretty easy to convince a resident or even the police to take you back to your car for a bit of money.
If tour companies or drivers say that there is no access to the site, they are wrong. Worse case scenario is the Xaaga back route up the mountain. But it's worth using the new highway to San Lorenzo, or if you're reluctant, then the old highway 190 to the San Lorenzo cut-off. For those who are unfamiliar with the roads up there, it's perhaps easiest to go via Xaaga, but for others with a bit more adventure, give the new highway a try - at your own risk because of continuing landslides (once the rainy season approaches), and having to cross a couple of man-made barriers otherwise precluding using the new highway.
Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast
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