Just returned from 8 days in Puerto Vallarta. First time there and a change from my usual visit to Puerto Escondido. Arrived at the airport quickly clearing customs (low season) and ran the gauntlet of time share salespeople and persistent cab drivers. Exiting the airport the bus stop is steps away. I asked a local for info and he told me what I needed to know (blue and white busses marked "centro") and even pointed out my bus five minutes later. Six and a half pesos later I was five blocks from my target hotel. And I could have gotten closer if I had known what I was doing. I stayed at the budget Hotel Azteca, for the bargain price of 200 pesos a night. Overall I found PV to be an inexpensive place given the current exchange rate and the low season timing along with the knowledge of many days spent in Old Mexico. I practically had the 49 room place to myself. I stayed on the south side of PV also known locally as the Centro. PV is filled with hotels and condos, but I digress.
What impressed my most upon my arrival was the view of the mountains from the hotel roof. I never knew PV was such a nice place. I was amazed by the green mountains which surround most of PV and I was dismayed by all the new condos built into its sides (though also impressed with their ability to do so). I consider it somewhat of a tragedy that they have altered the landscape in favor of condos with a far away ocean view. I think it is only a matter of time before the effects of all that construction during the last six years shows up. Oh well, those who buy these empty condos can contemplate their cloistered world high up on the hill, or on the beach blocking the view. There are so many high rise condos and hotels on the beach that you cannot see the water from the town, nor the town from the water. Fortunately I have no interest in such things so I tended to overlook them for the most part and concentrate on the Mexican atmosphere, good food, and friendly relations. Which brings up a few comparisons between PV and PE.
The beaches in PV are, for the most part, not especially nice or appealing, but they are fine for what they are and some of them are pretty typical with a lot of sand of several restaurants. The beaches in PE are much nicer for the most part. The scenery in PV, marred as it is, is very nice, especially if one takes the time to get out of the immediate area. The scenery in PE does not compare, but it has its moments. The services in PV are many and varied whereas in PE they tend to be limited. So it really depends on the type of atmosphere one is looking for as far as which place to visit. I like both places and I am happy visiting one or the other a week or so each year, or two.
I planned on going to Yelapa for a couple of nights, but I was so caught up learning about the south side that I decided to skip it. I hired a taxi to take me on a three hour tour, a three hour tour, I got a lot out of it. To get away from the city I took the Boca de Tomatlán/Mismaloya bus to Boca for the sum of seven pesos. It leaves from the corner of Carranza and Aguacate. After three hours of relaxation and a nice meal I, on impulse, took a water taxi to Las Animas beach for 50 pesos. A nice place to swim, not as dirty from all the river run off. Speaking of the weather it is the rainy season, and it rained heavily at times (mostly around 7 pm lasting from an hour to five hours), but it never really altered my plans. On the my last day if finally figured out (with help) that the blue and white busses that came down Madero past my hotel would turn left on Insurgentes if they had the number 03, and would go straight, to the beach, then turn around and make their way back, if they had the number 04. Or maybe it was the other way around. At any rate it will save you a lot of walking (and money) if you learn a little about how the busses work. I usually budget 100 dollars a day for my budget trips (or any others come to think of it) and I usually spend a little more. This time was no different. PV is a shoppers paradise and if you like to bargain you will do well. I enjoy the interaction and I enjoy the language so I have an advantage, but the key to the deal is to be prepared to walk away (within reason of course as everyone has their pride). In many ways both PE and PV have exceeded my expectations and if I am so inclined I will visit again. At this time I am thinking Colombia.