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Dave & Nona McDonald
Hi Tom, this is Dave McDonald again, The family is going to have memorial for Mary on the 24th of June here in Craig, Alaska, If anybody would like to send me a e-mail that they would like me to read for Mary and her family at the memorial please feel free to give my address to her friends and ask them for me to send me their message, and I will relate it to the family at the memorial. -Dave Mc Donald, dano4438@yahoo.com
Jane
We stayed the first night at Villa del Mar, and it was very nice. But since we live in Missouri we wanted to be on the ocean, and moved to Hotel Barra de Navidad. The desk clerk told me twice that they had no rooms to accommodate 4 people. I waited till a different clerk came on duty, and guess what, they did have double rooms. Previous comments had remarked on the indifference of the staff, and I have to agree. Our maid and a hotel worker, Juan Carlos, were the two exceptions.
We had no problems with the hotel, but a German couple staying there lost their camera in the hotel. For two days they asked everyone around if they had seen the camera. The day they left an expensive camera suddenly appeared on the lobby desk, and the staff crowded around it laughing and trying to figure out how to work it. This made us want to change hotels because we felt the staff was untrustworthy, but to tell the truth I just couldn't give up that great balcony. I would probably stay there again but would be EXTREMELY CAUTIOUS. This is the first time in 16 years of Mexican travels that I have ever been leery of leaving possessions lying around in a hotel.
I'm sure we'll return next year. By the way, if you fly into Puerto Vallarta and bus to Barra, you can catch the morning bus at 8:15 on the corner of V. Carranza and Aguacate, eliminating an extra trip to the bus station.
Paula Cunningham
Cathy Brooks
Todd from MN
Mary Marsden Passed Away
I have some sad news to tell the people of Barra. Mary Marsden, who lived in Barra for the last 10 years and was a good friend of most all the Americans that lived down there and that came down there on vacation, passed away on June 17, at her daughter's home in Alaska. They said that she went in her sleep so it was a peaceful way. I hope you can contact Beer Bob, and Tracy and her mom Peggy and they can let the rest of the people that cared about Mary know. You might mention to Cosme Rodriguez Nieves, who lives at #71 Manzanillo street also as he was a very dear friend of Mary's and they did live right next to each other.
dano4438@yahoo.com
June 2000Las Piratas is Moving
In the event that I'm not the only one to devour the contents of your entire fantastic site, should anyone have scrolled back to my March 1999 recommendation of Las Piratas restaurant/bar in Xametla (Bahía de Chamela, around km 64 on Highway 200) ... the bad news is, it's closed; but the good news is, it's reopening this fall in Yelapa, an island off Puerto Vallarta accessible only by boat. I'd have written sooner, but I was waiting for Juan Carlos, Arundu and Larry to decide on their new site, hoping they'd relocate somewhere closer to Barra. Knowing that some of your readers begin their Mexico adventure in Puerto Vallarta, I'll try to keep you posted about their new location.
jgorby@earthlink.net
June 2000A Cautionary View
Thanks for the website - an excellent source. Spent May 29 - June 7 in Barra with my husband and 11 and 16-yr-old sons. Had a wonderful time. The kids especially loved skateboarding in the zócalo, fishing (went 3 times, caught LOTS of fish, including 2 sailfish), catching crabs, and swimming in the surf.
CUNNINPJ@sverdrup.com
June 2000Gemstones
We are interested in any information about mining gemstones in the Jalisco area. Thank you.
cathy@a-tech.com
June 2000Maxim's
Great site! It came in handy when I was in Barra. I agree with Norma Turner on Maxim's being the best cantina in Barra! I stayed in town for a week in January and had a blast hanging out with the crew there. Roberto, the man who runs Maxim's, was friendly, generous and very talented (he played in the house band). The drink prices were phenomenal and the music (both recorded and live) was second to none in town. (no non-stop Santana, Lopez, Martin like every other bar) Justin, the bartender, was one of the coolest dudes I've met in Mexico and the surfers who took up residence there every night were always entertaining, telling exaggerated stories of their daily exploits. A big HOLA to Max, German, and the rest of the crew. You can even DJ if you bring your own CDs. (no Jimmy Buffett, please!) If anyone needs a break from Pipers and Sunset, I highly recommend Maxim's. Just don't drink too many El Presidentes or you'll end up waking up on the beach with a mouthful of sand! (or worse).
toddtruen@yahoo.com
May 2000La Terraza Kosonoy
My name es Pedro Garcia and my mother had e restaurant in Melaque for 15 years, was called "Los Pelicanos" she sold it because of the earthquake in 1996, now the lady that both the restaurant changed the name to Los Pelicanos Cascan, but is not the same service that my mother had for the international tourism, I lived in Melaque for 15 year to and the only good restaurant that I recommend is "La Terraza Kosonoy. They carry big selection of seafood and cafeteria food, if you have any more question about Melaque hit me back with an e-mail, thank for your attention, bye, bye.
Pedro Garcia
e-mail peter.garcia@atlp.com
May 2000
Kitty Leonard
Veneta, Oregon
DOwen65581@aol.com
May 2000
Hi Kitty. My fiancee and I are devoted to the Barra area especially Boca and La Manzanilla. We were in Bucerias last January and then in the same trip drove to Barra and surrounding areas.
You probably ought to take the time to visit Barra, Melaque, Via de Obregon, San Patricio, Cuastecomates, La Manzanilla and Playa Boca de Iguanas before you buy. Not that Bucerias is a poor choice, cause it is a nice little place.
Bucerias is fairly quaint with easy access to the PV airport and of course all the attractions of PV, of which there are many. However, you will also have more air pollution, traffic and vendors bugging you.
On the other hand the Barra neighborhood is very different. It is much more Mexican, with the good and the bad that goes with that. Your house buying money will probably go further in the Barra area as well.
We in particular love the Barra area and feel that in the future when the mass of baby boomers hit it will become more of a booming economy than it is now. The beauty of the area is awesome. The people are, as the vast majority of Mexicans, wonderful to visitors. My best advice is to look at the Barra area before buying.
We have been traveling to Mexico for the last four years as often as possible, and it seems that after each trip we update our feelings about where we want to buy for the future. Take your time is my thought. See many areas.
Best of LucK.
Jim and Dale jimccpa@home.com
Norma Turner
normarae@netidea.com
May 2000
The surf was very high in Barra & Melaque during our stay. This caused the beachfront hotel rooms to sound like artillery shells going off outside the door. After two restless nights at the Hotel Villa Hermosa 335-550-02(right across from the bus terminal) we moved to a new hotel.
We highly recommend the Posada de Cervantes on Calle Abel Salgado 132 (about 6 blocks from town toward Barra across from Hotel Mallorca). It is a new hotel as of December with 7 rooms & 4 bungalows (w/kitchen). Includes AC, pool, restaurant, & fans in the rooms. The English speaking owner named Victor is very generous, both in spirit and with knowledge about the area. Phone 335-565-74. These rooms were much more quiet being one block back from the surf. The entire place was ultra clean. Best coffee we found, and excellent breakfast. Rooms are $400p, $550p for Bungalows. You will not be disappointed.
We agree that the local businesses should start a clean up program. We enjoy the clean streets of PVR over the litter around the Melaque/Barra area. Prices in general are very reasonable in town. We did find that many of the finer restaurants were closed for the off season. If you go now be prepared for that.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help.
Kelly & Delene Patterson
kellyp@mindspring.com
May 2000
Nancy
potts@ssimicro.com
May 2000
The inability to have our concerns understood properly made matters more frustrating, the hotel staff couldn't even inform us of the breakfast that was supposed to have been included. We didn't know whether to laugh or cry when we came back one night after an evening of dancing to find ourselves locked out of the hotel, really!! We eventually ended up in Hotel Barra de Navidad, a beautiful hotel on the beach, and great scenery with just about all the comforts of home. If it wasn't previously recommended it certainly is now. Our last day and night was spent at Cabo Blanco [photo 62K], a bit pricey, however if you plan on spending the day at this all-inclusive hotel, you will find it well worth the price.
We really did have a great time in Barra de Navidad, the restaurants were great, the street vendors were great, the people friendly, and the beach - absolutely fantastic!!! Thank you Tom for your website and the information it contains, my girlfriend and I both would have no problem in recommending this place to other vacationers.
Ken & Julien
julie.ann.sam@sympatico.ca
May 2000
Andrea
ansla@hotmail.com
May 2000
I think there's just one hotel and it doesn't look too great. This town pretty much closes down and goes home (elsewhere) in the evening. However, this could change at any time.
You might like to try Coconuts by the Sea in Boca de Iguanas. Boca de Iguanas is another beach in Tenacatita Bay and is likewise beautiful though doesn't have as many restaurants. You can contact the owners, Bob & Cissie Jones by email cocos@bay.net.mx. Web page: http://www.COCONUTSBYTHESEA.COM/. Phone: (333) 86315. It is a private home with guest quarters. You can tell them I referred you. - Tom
Enjoyed your site and the memories.
L. Daitz, M.D.
ldaitz@axion.net
May 2000
We really enjoyed Bananaramas the coffee and breakfast are excellent and the owners are very helpful with info on the area. We stayed at Hotel Bahía and it is very clean quite new and very very inexpensive 1050.00 for two for 7 nights! That's PESOS!!The owners are delightful and the elderly gentleman that is there all the time is very sweet. We shared drinks and food with him. He speaks only Spanish but was patient with my espanol. The accommodation is no frills but a group kitchen is available. The beach across the street is the best place to swim with gentle waves.
Other places we ate were Surfos and Alcatraz. The friendliest and nicest place on the beach is Viva Maria they made our group a special seafood meal which was awesome.
The Banana boat fellows that work there and offer rides on the banana are great, take a ride only 30 pesos. The only down side I found to Melaque is the litter sad to see all the water bottles and other garbage polluting the ocean. Tenacatita was very clean and Boca De Iguana. Would be nice to see Melaque businesses and vendors get together and clean up the beach and town a bit. Don't get me wrong I loved it but it could be that much better with a clean-up drive.
Barra has a little more character and was fun to shop at but the Hotel Bahia was a great place to stay. Don't hesitate to use the first class bus service to Melaque it is excellent and very inexpensive.(Premier Plus) Adios any questions feel free to email me.
Sandra
gsmealing@home.com
May 2000
We still talk about our magical week at La Paloma and, as I think we mentioned, we never go back to a place twice, however much we enjoy it, as there are so many places in the world to see. However, La Paloma is different, and not only do we want to return but we want to recommend it to our friends.
Mary & Ian
May 2000
Restaurants:
SeaMaster was good (grilled shrimp in butter and garlic) but I wasn't too fussy about letting the many beach sellers into the restaurant while eating. Didn't stop us from buying so it couldn't have been too bad. Went to our favourite Valero's on the lagoon side 3 times and enjoyed the shrimp kebabs (with garlic and butter on the side). Also went to the Ambar (recommendation from the Lonely Planet guide) where an expat French lady serves terrific crepes and onion soup. After 2 weeks it was a welcome change.
Day trips:
Tenacatita - Nice beach for the day. Restaurants and bars on site. La Manzanilla (not to be confused with Manzanillo) is a short bus ride north and is a beach for mostly Mexican families. I liked the ambiance there. You could rent a few chairs and a beach umbrella for about 6 dollars for the day.
Colima - Spent about $60 U.S. on an all day bus tour to this interior capital city which is also in the state of Colima. I would say that the advertised pyramids and volcano are overstated. The bonus for the folks from Barra is that you get to see Manzanillo as well. Overall, it was a good way to see another facet of Mexico.
Cihuatlán - larger town with not much tourism south of Barra about 20 minutes (7 pesos by bus). Enjoyed going into the stores on the one way main street which are geared for locals and not tourists. This may be an alternative trip if you want to see something different and need to do some banking as they have bank machines there. Barra itself is friendly and has the usual amenities except for a bank machine which is available in Melaque only 10 minutes away by local bus for 2.5 pesos.
There are several small boat operators on the lagoon side who will take you all around the area, including a closer look at the Isla de Navidad area where the spectacular Grand Bay hotel is located.
While I didn't personally sample the night life, others at the hotel went to the Sunset bar each night for happy hour and then later to Piper Lovers. They seemed to like them both. If you would like any further information, let me know.
Ted
tedlunny@istar.ca
April 2000
Wonderful Place for a Holiday
What a wonderful website. It was invaluable to me in my research before heading off to Melaque at the end of March. We had booked into the Posada Pablo de Tarso, but only stayed one night. I'm sure that 5 years ago, this was a beautiful spot, but we found it to be deteriorating, and quite run-down. We ended up staying at Las Brisas, a hotel right on the beach in the center of town. (Right across the street from Bananarama). It was close to the bank, to the bus, and restaurants. As we were there at the end of the season, there was almost nobody on the beaches. We had a bungalow that slept 6, with a kitchen, and a balcony overlooking the bay. The hotel has a pool, and a beautifully cool patio/breezeway/lounge area. We loved it, and am surprised it is not mentioned on your site, or by any of your visitors. We paid just under 500 pesos for the bungalow, and my parents paid 200 for a room with 2 double beds. The socio, Augustin, and his staff are very friendly. If you want to stay further down the beach away from the central area Los Orientales looked very nice as well.
We traveled with 4 teenagers, and found Melaque and Barra to be very safe and friendly. Our kids would head off shopping or to restaurants by themselves after the first couple of days. We had great meals at Cesar y Charley, very economical fish at Las Palmas, wonderful chicken in a lava bowl at Alcatraz, and we just loved the alhambres at Pedro's (a small taco stand on the street - the little place with 3 Coca Cola tables under the 3 flags at Surfo's Bar) Breakfast at Banaramas every day - thanks to my brother, David now has a bacon and tomato grilled bolillo on his menu. And if you get to Tenacatita you MUST try the Rollo del Mar - fish stuffed with shrimp, octopus, and bacon, pan-fried with an almond sauce over top. At 60 pesos, you just can't beat it!
I would like to recommend a fellow named Victor to anyone for anything. He drives a large van (he operates out of the Hotel Dorado) and will take you anywhere from Tenacatita, to Boca de Iguanas, to the airport. He took along boogie boards and snorkel masks and fins for us to use as well. ...And he speaks very good English.
We took Canadian travelers cheques, and got a very good exchange rate. Also tried the bank machine, and it worked just fine. Melaque is a wonderful place for a family holiday.
gwoods@compusmart.ab.ca
April 2000
Scott Racy
sracy@wolfnet.com
Yakima, WA
April 2000
Jilhearne@aol.com
April 2000
Rosie Villegas-Smith
rosaitzel@yahoo.com
April 2000
Now I am asking for some help. I read some negatives on your website about AeroCalifornia but after I had already purchased my ticket. I took their flight from Manzanillo to Mexico City on Sat. April 8 and I haven't seen my bags yet, nor can I get any assurances from the "non-chalant" people I have called that I'll ever get them. They said to give them 30 days. All I have is an 800 number for the airline and a long distance number for lost & found in LA. I'm getting nowhere and wondered if anyone has an address for AeroCalifornia or a phone number for administration - officers that run the airline, etc. I want to contact the airport staff in Manzanillo, LA and Mexico City myself but need phone nos. or addresses. I can't begin to tell you how much I need/want all of the things I have in those 2 suitcases. Okay, I'm through whining but if anyone can offer any information on how to contact this illusive airline headquarters or airport locations, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Susan E. Richmond
Susan.Richmond@tulsa.cistech.com
April 2000
Tom Penick
tom@tomzap.com
March 2000
P.B.
bertorelli@coastnet.com
March 2000
At the Hotel Barra de Navidad, I took advantage of their safe boxes. Kept passport, documents, checks, and extra credit card in there. Made me feel better, much more secure. Again, I have nothing but good to report re. the Hotel Barra. Nice new decor, cheery and homey and wonderful. Those balconies are worth the price of admission.
At Ramon's, you can get "different" types of food, if you get tired of Mexican food and seafood. In addition to excellent traditional Mexican fare, Ramon's has a nice spaghetti, fish and chips, hamburgers, and even chicken fried steak!! I tried their chicken fried steak my last night in Barra, and it wasn't bad. Their chile rellenos are good! I find it's nice to eat pasta now and then when in Mexico, with tons of garlic. Helps slow down the digestive tract a bit, always a good thing down there. The little liquor/tobacco store across from the Hotel Barra not only has Mexican pesos (cambia), but also has stamps and a little mail drop-box. Nice, since the Barra post office is way way north of the main drag.
Reading the visitor comments, I am now wondering about the tiny military presence in Barra (and Melaque?). I had no idea why they were there, but they helped patrol the beach, kept the dune buggies off "our" part of the beach, which I absolutely appreciate. One day when a great big mangrove was banging against the beach, probably washed out of the lagoon, they chopped it up with great big machetes. Bravo! Tom, is their presence really ominous, as indicated in some of those reader comments? I never did see the Melaque part of the military thing. What's the deal with that? I certainly hope it's not ominous. If it's part of the war on drugs, good for the Mexican government!!
Well, Tom, I guess that's it. Except for the fact that I'm still in search of Ricardo the Tall One, via Piper at Piper y Lovers or whomever else might know him. Hard to miss him: very blond, six foot 10 inches tall!, staying in La Manzanilla (I think). Just want to get my e-mail address to him.
Maggie Plummer
plummer@digisys.net
March 2000
I loved the Hotel Barra de Navidad for its secure, private rooms with balconies overlooking the wild, explosive surf. And I loved Ramon's across the street from the Hotel Barra. Also, the liquor and tobacco store with cambia was wonderful! I did not care for the pasta dinner I had at the overpriced Mar Y Tierra. So, I disagree with your "best of Barra" listing there.
Now, a question: is there a way to somehow contact the folks at Piper Y Lovers? I would appreciate getting in touch with Piper and possibly a man he knows. Any help with this is most appreciated! Thanks again for your great web site, and I'll be back -- possibly next time I'll try staying in Melaque. or maybe even La Manzanilla, if I have the guts to try it!
Maggie Plummer of Polson, Montana
also known as Margarita de Montana!!
plummer@digisys.net
March 2000
1. While we are staying in Barra for 2 weeks in April, our friends will be in Manzanillo. What is the best way by bus for us to meet up with each other? How far are we apart?
2. We had also heard that mosquitoes can be a problem. What sprays etc seem to be effective? [see this] Do the larger hotels (Cabo Blanco) spray as a matter of course? [yes] Are they an issue at certain times of the day or year? [all times of the year, moreso when the wind is calm]
3. What are your readers favourite day trips and what publications are available on the area?
Thanks so much for any help, and keep up the good work on the excellent site.
Ted
tedlunny@istar.ca
March 2000
Might you have any info on either of these two places?
Also, I am having trouble booking a flight from Oakland or San Francisco, CA, to Manzanillo. for years, there was no flight at all, and now i hear there's flights out of sf to Manzanillo on Alaska. What happened to the cheapies that used to go to Manzanillo regularly?
Barbara Yaley
Berkeley, CA
BYaley@aol.com
March 2000
No, I don't know those places, unless you mean the Bungalows Mar Vida in Barra de Navidad. http://www.tomzap.com/marvida.html
I think Alaska Airlines is it. I can't recommend Mexicana. I just got back from a trip where 38 of us got bumped from a Mexicana flight on the way down and one of these families got bumped again on the way back (though their luggage made it--and ours didn't). -Tom
On one of your visitors comment pages, you have a letter from me and it mentions my "rich pampered in-laws". So now that they are online 20 hours a day I'm just worried that my comment might offend :-)
My Favor is if you could DELETE the rich pampered part... thanks.
name withheld
March 2000
Dustin
cndguy_15@hotmail.com
March 2000
Brad Smith
veritas_53@hotmail.com
March 2000
I agree with you on Bananas. Nice place, friendly staff, good food, and on the ocean. - Tom
Peter Nichols
neterpichols@hotmail.com
March 2000
Also, met Pete & Helen, a Canadian couple who have a charter service & restaurant. The charter service offers fishing & site seeing. We were fortunate to view the dolphins swimming on each side of the boat, jumping in and out of the water - a spectacular experience. Their restaurant offers specials each night - i.e. Wednesdays is Chinese and Friday nights is spaghetti. Their breakfasts are very good too. We recommend you give them a try.
Frans & Dori
FRANS@dmi.net
March 2000
I would like to recommend the Bungalows Orientales in Melaque. This place is spotless and very reasonably priced (with reductions for longer stays). We paid 350 pesos per night for 4 people, includes kitchen, clean bathroom, 2 bdrms, living area, tv, pool, on the beach. Located on Gomez Farias east of Moreno, (a 5-minute walk to the centro).
We also stayed at Posada Pablo de Tarso, bungalows with kitchens etc. This cost us 500 pesos/night for 4 people, but we spoke with others who managed to get a better price. This place is not as clean and organized as the Orientale in my opinion. Also, there was a robbery here in the middle of the night. Someone walked right in an unlocked door and stole all the cash and cards. Make sure your doors are locked and your $ are stashed.
Lots of people around Melaque want to go snorkeling, but the locals and the guide books direct everyone to Tenacatita, which is a very good spot for this. However it's not cheap or convenient to get there. There's a bus every Wednesday for about 110 pesos ea. Boats from Barra are really expensive, there is a Canadian guy who will take you in the back of his truck for a fee. We took a boat up the coast to Tamarindo beach for snorkeling, paid 800 pesos for 8 people expecting to be out for the day. Had the whole thing nailed down until we discovered this price was only for 4 hours and we were back in Barra by noon. They post the costs for excursions by boat, but they conveniently forget to mention little details like this. (I assume the Tenacatita trip is for the whole day, but be sure to ask).
If you're in Barra or Melaque and you want to snorkel, I recommend going to Cuastecomates, which is just over the hill north of Melaque. You could probably walk there in 30 minutes, we took a 30 peso cab ride. It is a gritty little place with no markets (just restaurants and a dirty beach), but a short swim takes you to some pretty good snorkeling areas, (to the left side of the bay), not world-class, but pretty good. Also, make sure you bring your own gear. Renting or borrowing gear in this area is not easy.
I agree with many of the other comments regarding restaurants in the area. Be sure to try the taco stands on the street below Surfos in Melaque. The one across the street is downright excellent and is nearly free. Next to this stand is a dessert cart which has excellent Creme Caramel (flan).
We went to Popeye's in Barra for some fish on someone's recommendation. I tried "Pescadero Vericruzana", an excellent dish I enjoyed immensely until 3 am the next morning when I suddenly awoke with huge stomach cramps and streaked to the bathroom in record time. Needless to say, I do not recommend Popeye's.
Gord in Calgary
refreeze@yahoo.com
March 2000
As a word of caution to others flying into Manzanillo from L.A., do not fly Aero California. They are forever late and if you've got connections - good luck. As well, on the way down, they lost our bags along with those of two other vacationers. They turned up eventually about 3 1/2 days into the trip.
While our vacation didn't start out well - La Paloma certainly made up for that inconvenience.
Al & Addie
alad@bc.sympatico.ca
March 2000
DJMalherek@aol.com
March 2000
Jason Kessler
jason.kessler@mciworld.com
March 2000
Marcus & Alison Cain
mcain2@prodigy.net.mx
February 2000
Arlettaslim
The owner of the parrots has been notified and has taken the birds to the doctor to be checked. Thanks, Marsha. - Tom
Thanks again for the site... has proven invaluable to me. I doubt if I ever would have found this area without it.
Bill Droke
I spoke with Dr. Herlinda in Barra, who has treated patients with the illness that your friends evidently had. She attributes it to rotovirus initially, which sometimes leads to a bacterial infection. She says the infection has been fatal in some cases in Colima where the infected area was around the heart. Symptoms of the rotovirus vary and may include diarrhea and vomiting. She has one patient that continues to suffer from a dry cough after 3 months of illness. She says the rotovirus is brought in by tourists.
Others have reported a similar outbreak in Canada and in Norway. -Tom
I also wanted to say that My cousins and myself who just got back from Melaque really enjoyed the La Tenga, Disqoteque and Surfos Bar. I love Melaque, Mexico!
Crystal Coe
RC
La Colema, open for breakfast 8-noon, is across the street from Judy's. Menu and prices are similar to Bananarama and Judy's, especially liked their fruit salad.
Siete Estrella, open all day, on west side of plaza. Very reasonable prices, breakfasts, buritos, guacamole, hamburgers, etc., and very good fresh fruit liquados (milkshakes).
Ricardo's, open at 6 pm, across street from Club Nautico El Dorado, excellent food and service. Try their Wed and Sat Barbeque Special of salad, drink, chicken or ribs, and dessert, for 55 pesos.
Restaurant Alcatraz, uptairs, "kitty-corner" from trailer park. Try their Chicken Special (Pollo Estilo Alcatraz) slices of sautéed chicken, onions, green peppers, bubbling in a rich brown sauce, served in a hot stone bowl. Also excellent, garlic shrimp (served with or without shells).
Sunflower Cafe, downstairs from Alcatraz, brewed coffee, espresso drinks, fresh baked cinnamon buns and pies.
Thrifty Ice Cream, up the street, towards Plaza. Lots of different flavors, in regular or waffle cones.
Thanks for your website, its really fun to read comments about Melaque, (we first came in 1984, its become discovered...but not yet spoiled).
Katie
Vivienne
I have seen the Colinas de Plata and they are very nice and peaceful. Swimming pool, nice grounds, laundry, air-conditioned. They are located in the neighborhood behind the Cabo Blanco, so it is a bit of a walk to downtown Barra de Navidad. I have photos which I will be adding hopefully soon. - Tom
Excuse any misspellings that I might have made - I am not sure of some of the Spanish names for the clubs.
Ranjan McArthur
I just arrived back from my first trip to Mexico, vacationing with family members who go each year, staying 3-4 weeks each time. This was their first trip to the Melaque/Barra De Navidad area. They stayed at Hotel Mallorca, and some at the Las Palmas. Both were exactly as listed on your web page description, good/clean values.
My experience with the Hotel Royale Costa Sur ended by checking out on the 3rd day of a scheduled 7-day stay, and relocating to Melaque. Due to problems with toilets backing up, no warm water for showers, and our room included a kitchenette that was not usable. And would not have mattered anyway due to no store in the area to purchase food items, etc. Melaque was the nearest. Let me say that the staff was very friendly and tried to help me with the above issues. I made an attempt to speak with the manager, but he or she? was never available. To be honest, my experience was more comical, than frustrating. I just wanted notify you, and anyone that was planning a trip to the general area, they should stay clear of this location until it comes under new management. It truly has potential to be a great place to stay.
But I still planned to vacation next year in the Manzanillo area. I found too many positive's with the people, weather, and over all cost of lodging.
Chris
Aubrey Little
Sandra
Parrot Alert   Parrots are Cleared!
Tom, Thought this bit of information might be important! There is a small grocery store just south and east of the bus station in Barra. The store is across the street, just north of the store that sells newspapers and magazines. There is a parrot in a cage, just out side store. Three friends who were in Barra in late Jan. and early Feb. spent time talking and touching the bird. All three contracted an infectious form of pneumonia; one is now in critical condition in a Seattle hospital. The doctors seem to feel that the bird is a carrier of some dangerous contagious parasite or disease. Please post on your web site. Stay away from the Parrot in the cage outside the store!
FSitts@aol.com
February 2000
wed@laplaza.orgApartment for rent in Melaque?
Hi tom, I just got back from Melaque about 3 weeks ago, and it was my first trip. I loved it. I am planning on going back next January for about 3 months. I was wondering if you knew of a apartment I could think about renting somewhere close to town or close to the beach?
crystalina_44@hotmail.com
February 2000Hotel Barra de Navidad
We will be at hotel Barra de Navidad in April. We know it has a pool and view of the ocean, but don't know what it looks like. Does anyone have a picture of the hotel? or can describe it? also any recommendations on where to eat with kids? Thanks.
adamber@erols.com
February 2000Melaque Restaurants
Just got back from 2 weeks in Melaque. Here are a few restaurants that are not on your website, and that we liked very much:
KatieWoo1@yahoo.com
February 2000More On Canadian Money
I have to disagree with Ann when she advises that people take U.S. currency or use credit cards while in Mexico. We just returned on Tuesday from Barra and all we took were Canadian travelers cheques and some pesos we had left over from last year's trip. Both the money exchange on the main street in Barra, as well as the cigar/liquor store exchange across from Hotel Barra de Navidad, accept Canadian travelers cheques, the latter even exchanging Canadian bills. We also used the ATM machine in Melaque and found this to provide the best exchange rate. (It also makes you feel really rich to see your account balance until you remember it's in pesos!!!). I see you have a link to the condos Colinas de Plata on your site and wonder if anyone has any comments with regards to this accommodation.
vivienne_saunders@telus.net
February 2000Tennis in Cihuatlán
I spend 3-4 weeks every winter in Melaque and have done so for the past 3 years. My wife and I are tennis players and are both very passionate about the sport. We were very fortunate to meet people in the Cihuatlán area just 15 minutes inland of Melaque who play at local clubs located there. I say clubs, but do not intend it in the way that we perceive clubs her in North America. In Cihuatlán these "clubs" are very open to new people playing there. There are daily rates of 20 pesos at El Genito(?) and 30 at Tenis El Palmar. Both clubs boast red clay courts and great people to go along with them. The players are mainly Mexicanos but there are definitely a strong contingent of gringos as well. Play usually starts at 9:00 AM and goes until it gets too hot around 12:30 PM. There is a window of opportunity to play again at 4:30 in the afternoons for two hours or so. The setting at El Palmar is beautiful. It is nestled in a banana plantation with beautiful plants surrounding the four clay courts found there. We usually play the mornings and then cruise the beaches or the quaint storefronts in Cihuatlán. Great little town and great people. If you like to play tennis go there you'll love. There are lessons available from Leopoldo Salas, a USTA certified instructor and former 12th nationally ranked player in Mexico. Good healthy fun. Transportation is available via local bus. It costs 5 pesos to go from Barra or Melaque to Cihuatlán. When the bus stops at the depot (which is where the trip ends) you can almost see the tennis courts. If you walk out the back of the bus stop you will be facing a soccer stadium/field. To the left of the stadium is El Genito and to the right is the Tenis El Palmar. Just walk on in and you will be treated right. Use what Spanish you have and you'll fit right in.
Victoria, BC, Canada
getme@home.com
February 2000Problems at the Hotel Royale Costa Sur
Howdy Tom. First of all, I would like to tell you that your web page was a big help.
MCFADYEN.M@worldnet.att.net
February 2000Hello Villas Cabo Coral, Anybody Home?
I'm trying to get some information about Villas Cabo Coral. I sent them a couple of letters over 3 months ago - to-date no reply - NADA.
a.little@attcanada.net
February 2000Too Late for the Bus
Hi, Anyone have info on a fellow that will come to Puerto Vallarta and drive a group to Melaque? Our plane gets in just after the last first class bus leaves PV! So we are trying to find another means of getting to Melaque. Has anyone tried the regular bus? When does it leave PV and is it okay. Thanks.
gsmealing@home.com
February 2000Hotel Tecuán Closed
We just returned from another great trip to Barra and Melaque. A couple of notes about some of the places we stayed and visited while there. In Melaque we stayed at the Monterrey [photo] which is clean, cheap but noisy due to the rooms venting to the lobby. Right in the middle of town so everything is easily accessible. Also stayed at the Bungalows Mallorca [photo] which is south of town. The rooms were nice with small kitchens and even a TV with ESPN in English! This part of the beach is a little rougher but there is not nearly as many people. The pool was great and the grounds well maintained. About $50 per night for two bedrooms.
In Barra we tried to stay at Cabo Blanco [photo 62K] but in December they went to an all-inclusive deal that is about $150 for two. The place was empty. No way to work a better deal. I did talk to some folks that thought it was such a good deal that they could afford to go to town to eat, imagine that! We did stay at the Barra de Navidad and had a great time. After all the warning we were very careful with our money but had no problems at all. I would only stay if I got a room with a "vista" or toward the ocean. Pool was fine and the ocean much calmer that last year. A friend went fishing with a guy named Blas and had a great time and would recommend him if you are a little adventuresome. There is a small restaurant called Elory by the lagoon that was great, much better that Seamaster's or some of the better known ones.
In Tenacatita there is now a small hotel, there is about six rooms that are small and one large two or three bedroom "suite". Twenty bucks a night. The rooms are clean and sometimes you have hot water. They have a little restaurant in the middle of the place where you can get good food and there is a bunch of places within walking distance.
El Tecuán in so more at least for now. We went up to look and it appears as if the Canadian's just pulled up stakes. It was a great place to stay.
One place that might be worth checking into is Paraiso Costalegre in the Chamela Bay area. They have just fixed up the ocean front rooms and also have some large multifamily suites. There is not much in the way of food at the hotel but you can go to the bus stop about a mile away for food etc. There is also quite a few small places to eat in Perula. Beaches were great for body surfing and hardly a soul in sight. The manager, Salvador, has very flexible prices for the rooms. Somewhere between 35-50 a night depending on your haggling skills.
Hope these comments are helpful.
David Castor
dogdock@bigsky.net
February 2000
Charles
CFGRAB@aol.com
February 2000
Just like Charles, I took many beers with Felix at his bar(?) tables establishments... Is he still alive?
Paul Savard
Alias "Pablocito"
cyclovir@globetrotter.qc.ca
February 2000
Tom, just spent a month in Barra, got back from Never Never Land the 8th of March [Feb.?]. Had a great time as usual! Checked out your web site and there was a question whether Felix was alive and still around. He is doing great and looks better than he has for years!!! Drank plenty of beer with him and laughed and laughed when he would go out and shake a leg. You know how he likes his ladies. Yes, Felix is alive and pounding! Thanks for your great site.
Arlettaslim
arlettaslim@earthlink.net
February 2000
Last Easter I was able to share the riches of Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido for 2 weeks with 7 other women, half of whom had never been to Mexico. It being a mother daughter grandmother trip the pressure was on (Me) will we be safe, etc. It was a fantastic trip. When questions arose I just directed them to your site. This March headed to Melaque for 3 weeks and I was wondering if anyone has been to the Hotel Royale Costa Sur in Cuastecomates recently? Spoke to them on the phone and they were extremely nice. Was wondering if this is the hotel mentioned in a post with a description of the beach at Cuastecomates stating the hotel is a dump. I must confess I have stayed in some very enjoyable dumps and with a quoted price of $15 a night for myself and 2 grandchildren I'm willing to give it a go. Any input would be welcome. Many thanks.
Linda
Yamicoco@aol.com
February 2000
The buffet breakfast at the Delfin, which costs $29 pesos, is a great bargain. Good coffee, toast, buns, fresh fruit, cereal and a choice of entrees (eggs, pancakes) make it a good stop. On occasion they also have a "pasta" dish that contains ham, egg, peppers and cheese. It is delicious but costs an extra $8 pesos.
We ate a couple of times at Ramon's. The food was excellent, the service good and the prices reasonable.
We ate at the Ambar but would not recommend it. It was pricey, the service was poor and the food was barely adequate.
We enjoyed Tessa's burgers and sandwiches. Chris also recommended Estrella beer which we enjoyed more than the other brands.
A "must" for happy hour (from 2 to 10 pm daily, beer included) is the Sunset Bar. It is unique, the service good and the setting is great. One good shake and the whole place will come tumbling down. We feel that it would give most places a run for the "worst bathroom" award. But, after a few cervezas, who cares.
We stayed for 12 days in Melaque at the Hotel Puesta Del Sol [photo] across from the bus station on Gomez Farias. We had a top floor, ocean view room with a small fridge, two-burner stove and sink on our balcony. The hotel has a mixture of long term residents who return year after year (mainly Canadians) and Mexican tourists. We were initially concerned that the maid did not do a very good job and our linens were not changed. We spoke to one of the young guys in charge (all the people running the place were very young) and the problem was cleared up. From that point on we did not have a problem.
We ate at Cesar and Charlie's and had good meals. We also went there for happy hour a few times (very good margaritas). A word of caution make sure they give you the "two for one", they had a tendency to lose count (and after a few drinks we did too).
Bananarama has good breakfasts (they still don't compare with the Delfin buffet). The owners (from Grand Forks BC) have opened Bananarama At Night (Wednesday through Saturday). The place is a bit hard to find but you can get a map at the breakfast Banarama on Gomez Farias. They have a small menu (pork chops, spaghetti, lasagna etc.). The owners are very friendly and are a good source of information about Melaque.
We had good meals at Koala's. They have a limited menu (no Mexican food) but the food was well prepared and very tasty. However, they are a bit pricey.
We also had a couple of good meals at the small restaurant that is located in the Villas Camino del Mar - we think it is called Chevolos. It is a small, family run operation and the food was very good. The family lives on site - when you use the bathroom the toothbrushes from family members are by the sink.
We also enjoyed Surfo's Bar, upstairs a half block east of the square on Jaurez (it has three flags - Mexican, American and Canadian hanging from the front). The hamburger place in the back is supposed to be good as well. We had a Greek salad there that was very good. Just below Surfo's on the street is a taco stand that is considered to be one of the best in Melaque. One of the Americans living in Melaque referred to it as "Pedro's".
We went to the golf course at the Grand Bay Hotel [photo 278K]. It is amazing to see how the other half lives! We ate at the golf course and would not recommend the food. The salad was excellent but our sandwich and stuffed pepper we among the worst meals we had while in Mexico. Go to look around, have a drink, but not too eat (at the golf course anyway).
Los Pelicanos, a restaurant referred to in virtually all the books about Melaque, is no longer in business.
We found your web site helpful before we went.
Ed and Dody
sorsdahl&strong@telus.net
January 2000
Bruce
jimijazz@mail.connectexpress.com
January 2000
Tropical is still not open. -Tom
Debbie Henderson
debbie0056@home.com
January 2000
S. Racy
sracy@wolfenet.com
January 2000
Yes. I'm not familiar with the particular schedules for the little local busses that do this. You need to find out when the last bus leaves the beach; it's usually just before sundown. Particularly in Tenacatita, which is bustling during the day with many beachfront establishments; in the evening everyone leaves. - Tom
Since we (group of 6 of us) were there for two weeks we got out to see the area. We went snorkeling for the day in Tenacatita and it was awesome, the clear water around the coral was excellent for snorkeling, we saw so many bright-colored fish, octopus, manta rays etc. and the waves and wind were calm the whole day. Later on we had supper and I tried the Rollo de Mar, it was the best thing I ate the whole trip. Don't forget your English/Spanish Dictionary if you can't speak Spanish the one restaurant we were at spoke no English. We also made two trips into Barra de Navidad shopping, everyone was so nice and polite we had to come twice. We had drinks in Piper Lovers, neat place, and then over to the Sunset Bar for supper and a few more drinks, food was great (I think we all ate hamburgers)and the drinks were huge. Good prices! We did get the opportunity to go to Manzanillo, but the hour and a half drive in the cab wore us out. Not as friendly there and a lot more people and traffic to deal with. I wish I had gone to Barra first because I wouldn't have bothered going to Manzanillo, prices and services were way better in Barra and it had everything you needed right there without the hassle. We walked all through Barra de Navidad saw a lot more cuz everything was in the same general area. A lot of time was wasted in the cab in Manzanillo. It all depends on what you want, the big city or smaller towns. Awesome trip! Be sure to go and visit Barra de Navidad and Bahía de Tenacatita.
Shelly
skaisner@titanlink.com
January 2000
As for the food, we ate very well. Mar y Terra was the top of our list for great dining and service. We spent most of our afternoons there under an umbrella, and several dinners there were all wonderful. Other places we enjoyed were Ramon's, Banana's, Los Arcos, and Pati's. We were not impressed at all with Popeye's (they win the worst bathroom award hands down). Happy hour almost every night was at Seamaster's. The service and the drinks were outstanding. I would also like to say that Ambar's was a joke of a restaurant. We went for desert and a drink one evening and ordered the Banana crepes flambe. They arrived at our table with no flames, but soaked in alcohol so we could barely eat them. The service was not great either. We also searched for Jalepeno's (wanting to try the Sexy Coffee), but it has closed.
We took a trip over to the Grand Bay one afternoon for lunch and to check it out. We ate lunch by the pool and had a very good meal for not much money. We went another day for lunch at the golf course, but I wouldn't recommend it. The service was slow, and the place was pretty much empty. Loved the water taxi rides though!
Susan Perrigo
SPerrigo@GlacierNW.com
January 2000
Barra was great as usually. Enjoyed eating at Ramon's and Banana's. Not impressed with the food at Popeye's, but love the setting and the view. Also ate at Tessa's and Pati's, both good. Only spent a few minutes in Mango Bay, but should have spent much more time.
Accommodations at Marsha's Mar Vida Bungalows were at best ok. She needs to fix the place up some. She is helpful and nice.
Stayed one night in Via de Obregon near San Patricio/Melaque and thought it was excellent. Also visited La Paloma and wished we could have stayed there. It is magnificent. Friends we met at Marsha's spent a second week at La Paloma so we saw the room and all the facilities. It is the top of the mark. Unparalleled in the world as far as I am concerned -- and last time in Barra I stayed at the Grand Bay Hotel. It is world class, but the La Paloma is truly unique in all the world.
One other point. While in Barra we had the opportunity to get a massage with Rod from Idaho. We met him thru Marsha. He is reasonably priced and did wonders for a mild back sprain I had from falling on the rocks near Cuastecomates. He can be scheduled thru the ladies at Mango Bay.
Drove out to Playa Boca de Iguanas and La Manzanilla -- another must see area. Not time for Tenacatita this trip though.
We arrived in Puerto Vallarta and went to Budget where we had confirmed reservations for a VW. No cars available. They walked us over to Advantage and set us up with the same car for the same price, but slightly more per day for the insurance program. Thank you for your tip on calling Budget's 1-800 number. Thanks for your site and your help.
Jim C
Phoenix
jimccpa@email.msn.com
January 2000
Wendy Randall
wrandall@yknet.yk.ca
January 2000
Wendy, I can't get a message to your email address. -Tom
Debbie Henderson
Surrey, B.C.
debbie0056@home.com
January 2000
Laurie Fraser
llfraser.sk.sympatico.com
January 2000
Most of the tennis courtsare at the larger hotels. The ones at Cabo Blanco are quite nice and you may be able to rent some time. Of course, the ones at the Grand Bay are stupendous, but it'd be harder to get time on them.
John Williams
sharkbait69@yahoo.com
January 2000
Ed Fesler
efinguad@usa.net
January 2000
There is a natural waterway just inland from the coast, where wildlife tours are conducted. I am assuming this is the River Adventure you are talking about. I have spoken with one couple that took a tour and weren't too impressed since they didn't see much wildlife. I would not discount the tour based on that. It is a beautiful area and there is much wildlife there--we just can't expect them to "perform" every time. If you like nature and natural places, I would recommend the trip, otherwise it probably won't be much of an adventure. - Tom
Ken Hayes
Vancouver Canada
KEN_HAYES@telus.net
January 2000
His address: Ramon Corona #128, San Patricio-Melaque Jalisco, Mexico 48980, Tel. and Fax (335) 5 50 77.
Leslie Johnson
melaque@cyberus.ca
January 2000
We had several friends who stayed at the Bogavante and encountered problems, the worst being that the management would pump out the septic system every few days with the end of the pipe going directly into the sand on the beach in front of the hotel -- the area where the hotel guests sunbathe! It was very disgusting and made me stay away from that area the rest of our stay. Another hotel, the Delphin, gave our friends a surprise when they checked out -- a 40 peso per day room tax!! Otherwise, they thoroughly enjoyed their 3 week stay at the Delphin.
Several members of our group had children ranging in age from 12 to 23. All were able to be set free in Barra (or from Melaque) and found the night life in town to be safe and exciting -- dancing at the Sunset, burgers and shakes at Tessa's, ping pong at Pipers, walking, meeting etc along the streets. Since the town is self-contained, the parents did not need to go far to "accidently" run into their children.
We found Ramon's restaurant to the be the most reliable, friendly and competively priced one in town. We enjoyed three meals at Los Arcos and found it to be very good food and the "Mom and Pop" atmosphere delightful. Piper's was the best night spot. Churros from Florentino in the evenings was a highlight.
Also two very good coffee shops are now in town: Mango Bay, run by Pam and Jan, serves espresso and brewed gourmet coffees -- very strong and rich. Pam also makes the best Kalua Milkshake in the world!! They also have an internet station with two computers, which is run by Mary Carman, DDS, who is delightful and very helpful. The connections are as reliable as the long distance connection with Guadalajara (somewhat iffy). Pam and Jan are a wealth of information on local interest -they are both British and speak Spanish fluently. Pam is married to the manager of the Grand Bay Hotel and is very knowledgeable about activities in and around that facility.
The other cafe is called Cafe D'Arte, run by Hector and Tina. Hector is Mexican and Tina is British. They make a rich brew, the best fruit, yogurt and granola bowl in town, and great scones. Additionally, their Licuado rivals Katarina's (across from the church).
As you can tell, we had a wonderful time and are looking forward to another visit.
Mas tarde
Linda and John
Seattle
oconny1@home.com
January 2000
Cihuatlan buslines head to Barra as well, but unfortunately I don't know their schedule. It's likely to be more frequent than Flecha. Hope this helps.
Paul B.
bertorelli@coastnet.com
January 2000
We are going to Melaque the beginning of April Looking for a clean reasonably priced place to stay....suggestions? There will be three couples should we book ahead? Any info is greatly appreciated. Can't wait for our trip.
Hasta La Vista
Sandra
gmealing@home.com
January 2000
Back to teaching this week - my 1st and 2nd graders were glad to be back, I brought each of them one of those cool turtles with the bobbing heads, a shell from the beach and a peso. they were stoked! I'm exhausted but happy, ready for our return trip next year (which will be made easier by the fact that we were bumped for a night on the way there and each (10 of us) received $500 vouchers! - then some of us had luggage detained in Phoenix on the way home and were given $100 vouchers for each detained piece! What a score!!!)
Debbie T.
robforme@pacifier.com
January 2000
P.S. Having withdrawals of sorts for those yummy avocados - even more so for that charming avacado man!
Wendy Randall
wrandall@yknet.yk.ca
January 2000
In mid-October I flew into PVR arriving about noon. I took a cab to the new bus terminal just north of the airport (80 pesos taxi stand rate). I quickly checked out the schedules at the various bus lines and concluded that I had just missed a first class bus to Barra and boarded the next available bus, Flecha Amarilla line's servicio regular run at 1:30 p.m. (cost 98 pesos). It was an interesting, if somewhat lengthy, trip to Barra which included many stops along the way. We even encountered a funeral procession in Tomatlan. The bus pulled into Barra about 7:30 p.m.
I have a sneaking suspicion that if I had taken my time in PVR I might have found a first class bus mid- to late afternoon that would have cut travel time in half and provided for a more comfortable -- if less culturally intense -- bus trip. The additional cost for a first class bus is only 20 or 30 pesos.
I also traveled by bus from Barra/Melaque via Manzanillo (28 pesos) to Colima (38 pesos first class) and then to Guadalajara (96 pesos first class). A side trip from Colima to Comala (near the volcanoes) by local commuter bus is three pesos either way. I didn't plan my trip from Melaque to Colima at all -- but the frequent bus connections resulted in seamless connections along the way. It was all quite painless.
I loved Melaque, by the way.
Mike
moran_old@bc.sympatico.ca
January 2000
First of all, forget Canadian travelers' cheques. Nobody wants them or understands them. Arm yourself before you leave Canada with some small denomination bills in American money. That will deal with cabs and odd expenses. Taxis take American dollars, buses take microscopic amounts of pesos. Then change around $20 Canadian into pesos at your hotel or the nearest bank, whichever is most convenient. Charge everything, including excursions, at your hotel or restaurant (make sure they take VISA but most do,) and relax. You do not pay for another month anyway and the exchange rate is usually fair. Even on the beach or the small boutiques every Mexican is happy to take that good ole American dollar and the dollars you don't use this trip -you should be so thrifty - you can use next vacation.
Do not waste time and money changing Canadian money into pesos when in Canada. Nobody cares and Canadian money is unfamiliar currency. As long as you are armed with enough pesos to give a small gift to a child or buy an ice cream (not a wise move for North American insides) plastic works just fine.
Perhaps you might comment, Tom, but this holds true for Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Cancun, and various spots in between. Happy New Year everyone,
Ann
campbelx@cadvision.com
January 2000
A few questions. I loved Melaque. Barra was great, but the beach was easier in Melaque. I stayed at the Hotel Bahia, down by Hotel Lagazpi. I lost their business card. Can someone tell me how to get in touch with them? What is March like after the San Patricio festival, is it busy at the end of March, but before Semana Santa. Any information would be appreciated.
Good restaurant in Melaque for barbeque is La Pelape (or it might be in San Patricio as they run into each other). A trip to La Manazanilla was about 45 minutes by bus and less than a buck. Really nice... just make sure you are on the last bus returning about 3:30.
Deb Calderon
calderon@infinet.net
December 1999
Wes
mcjenick@autobahn.mb.ca
December 1999
Surprised to see negative comments re Los Arcos from "Eileen and Jay". Following my first meal there, the owner came chasing after me down the street to give me change because, owing to my poor Spanish, I had left too much money. Does this sound like someone obviously looking to take advantage of tourists? By the way, the food was very good, so were the prices and the owners are very friendly! [Los Arcos is recommended. -Tom]
For those staying in Barra or Melaque, Ciber@net, 27 Av. Gomez Farias, Pasaje comercial, Melaque, has internet service by 15 minute segment or by the hour. E-mail: melaque@ciber.net.mx They are open from 9:30 to 2:30 and 4:00 to 8:00 daily. They have a number of computers on site and I never had to wait, but reservations can be made at Melaque 559 19.
Paul Bertorelli
bertorelli@coastnet.com
December 1999
There's Internet access now in Barra. Mango Bay, a nice coffee (Starbucks, Peets, etc.) and pastry establishment also offers curios and Internet access by the hour. The women who run the place are wonderfully gracious. Hourly Internet rates run about 75 pesos. Mid-morning seems to be the best time to successfully get online and it's not a bad time to get your second cup of coffee either!
We rented a car from Peggy at Crazy Cactus and found that getting out of Barra and exploring the beaches and coastal towns nearby was a pleasant distraction and a great way to escape crowds. Peggy and her daughter Tracy were very helpful and her rental rates are reasonable. BTW, Tracy says that she's working on getting permits to rent kayaks which will most likely launch out of Melaque. Apparently, getting the proper permits is somewhat of a hassle. She imagines that she'll have the kayaks ready to rent sometime in January.
Here are a couple of things we learned about getting to Tenacatita. There are two ways to get there by boat. One is to rent a boat by the hour (a pricey venture but entirely worth it if you can afford it); the other is to go there on a group boat. The latter costs about US$20 per person and snorkel equipment is available at an extra cost. (If you don't want to wait and take chances that the boat equipment will fit you, you can rent snorkeling equipment at Crazy Cactus by the day or the half-day. They have a wide range of sizes and they rent for about 75 pesos a day) The downside about the boat is that it only goes once ten people have signed up. Since we couldn't fill the allotted spaces, we drove there instead. Snorkeling visibility was not great that day but the experience was wonderful.
BTW, Los Arcos has gotten a lot of great press from visitors but oddly enough it was the only restaurant we visited where we had a bad experience. We asked if they would provide us with a "take-out" order of rice for two and what would be a simple low-budget side dish turned out to cost 16 pesos (and believe me it was a measly scoop of rice). This seemed exorbitant given what we knew of local prices and it was truly the only experience we had of someone obviously taking advantage of tourists.
Thanks for all your great coverage of the area. It was much appreciated and incredibly useful during our stay. We'll be back!
Eileen and Jay
Eileen.Hansen@barclaysglobal.com
December 1999
Glen Dunsworth
duny@islandnet.com
December 1999
We are actually an interesting group of friends, mostly musicians, bringing instrument, snorkeling stuff, dancing feet and kind hearts. Some of us are school teachers and some of us are other things. We are all really looking forward to relaxing and enjoying a beautiful new to us part of the world.
Oh, how's the surf? How's the drinking water? We've been working on our Spanish. We'll do our best to be good guests.
Warmly,
Debbie Twombly
robforme@pacifier.com
December 1999
Melaque does have an ATM machine, but a recent comment suggests that you not rely on it. American Express travelers' cheques, and others, are accepted. It is best to drink bottled water. Enjoy your stay. -Tom
NOW - How to have the best time in Barra?! Take spanish lessons! There is a woman in Barra named Bonnie who runs "Amiga's" Spanish Lessons, one on one or in groups. She has a very creative and effective method of teaching - I learned more from her than I had in years of studying - I highly recommend her and know that my experience in Barra was superior because of the knowledge and confidence I gained with speaking Spanish. Her rates are reasonable ($60 US for a 5 - 10 hr package) and she makes it fun, relaxing, and easy! She is a very talented teacher! Bonnie is from Vancouver and lives in Barra. She can be found down there at #124 Avenida Lopez de Legazpi, above the Money Exchange/Vinos y Licores (liquor store), across from the Hotel Barra (on the corner). There is a doorway next to the store, walk down the corridor and up the stairs to her door. Her balcony faces the street.
By the way, in response to one of your visitors, I did see Fortino's 2 Restaurant there but didn't go in. The best deal were the taquito's and quesadilla's at Pitufo's Taqueteria (eve's only) on Avenida Veracruz. Other great restaurants - Los Arcos, Velero's, Seamaster, Manglito's, Paty's, Ambar's.
The boat ride with the river cruise to Tenacatita was fantastic and I recommend the Fiesta Mexicana restaurant there. I just want to add that regarding the Marine's being there - well, I felt safer having them around, they are definitely welcome by the locals, and have a friendly presence there.
Lori
Vancouver, B.C.
lorsang@yahoo.com
December 1999
We thought we would like to stay at the Mar Vida to take advantage of the kitchenette but I did not make reservations and when we arrived Marsha was booked solid so we went to the Hotel Barra de Navidad. I had stayed there in 1991 and thought it was nice then so we checked in. The next day we looked at other accommodation, many nice places and price ranges to choose from, but with the kids along a pool was very high on the priority list. We weighed the pros and cons of each place and decided to spend the whole time at the hotel Barra. It is the only place on the beach with a pool, the location is great and the room we had was on the beach side and had just been renovated complete with air conditioning (425 pesos + 35 pesos if using the air conditioning). There was renovation work going on around us but it was no problem. We had great sunset and morning views from our patio, close to everything, I bought a cooler, loaded it up, went to the pool and had a blast with the family (I spent more money in PV in three nights than the whole time in Barra but I won't get into that).
The marines set up beside Mar y Tierra didn't cause us any concern. They are armed to the teeth and ready for action, only problem is, there is no action. I was told they are looking for drug smugglers, apparently a lot of drugs come in through Manzanillo and they don't want the same to happen in Barra. Who Knows???
In short, a great time was had by all, no problem with the wee ones and if you like the place you're at, stay there.
Thanks for the web site Tom. I had print outs of the "best of Barra/Melaque" with me and some the restaurant owners did not know they were on the web site but thought it was great when I showed them the page.
Chris, Renee, Walter and Barbara
Vancouver
chris_homewood@city.vancouver.bc.ca
December 1999
Not knowing where to go or what to do in the dark, we went across the street to the Hotel Sands [photo 45K]. The night desk clerk quoted his unposted rate of 288 pesos for two persons; but they did not have two beds, only one full size bed , but, he would give it to us for the one person rate of 216 pesos. We spent a very uncomfortable night at the hotel sands and the following morning we went to all the hotels listed on Zpescas web site and to our surprise found much better accommodations, some even with air-conditioning, for competitive prices or less.
When we check out of the Hotel Sands on 17 Nov 99, the day desk clerk gave us a bill for 288 pesos, plus 6% tax, claiming regardless of what anyone quoted us, the rate is 288 pesos for two persons and even after 45 minutes of negotiations, he would not budge.
We reluctantly paid the bill, but promised to post our comments here when we returned home. We thank you for the opportunity to post our comments and only wish to alert prospective guest of the Hotel Sands to be cautious in dealing with them and to be assured that there are far better places to stay for even less money.
One for example, is the Polos Bungalows, which are air conditioned and include a complete kitchenette and TV, for only 200 pesos, this would have been a far better choice, had we known about it that first night.
All-in-all, we did enjoy our visit to Barra de Navidad and wish to give special recognition to the Barra de Navidad Hotel, the Delfin Hotel, the Ambar Restaurant and the Mar y Tierra Restaurant; all very nice establishments.
Mr. & Mrs. J. Sedlin
jacsed@juno.com
November 1999
Paul Savard
Alias "Pablocito"
cyclovir@globetrotter.qc.ca
November 1999
Barbara
blawrance@yahoo.com
November 1999
Also, we are interested in ways to be a blessing to those we meet along the way? Any ideas of ways to help others less fortunate but still avoid offending anyone. We would like to take toys for the holidays, is that okay? Does anyone know of the churches in Barra or Melaque? Any names or addresses or contacts would be great. How can we help? Would clothing or food be more appropriate? HELP! We have never "been there - done that" so we want to be sure to not step on toes. Our hearts are in the right place, just not sure how to proceed from here. Any suggestions. All comments will be appreciated!
Debi
cyndi@ptialaska.net
November 1999
For donations, check with Marsha at the Bungalows Mar Vida. She and her friends can point you in the right direction. -Tom
Jill V Davis
jvdavis@metlife.com
November 1999
We are planning a trip to Mexico in mid January next year, and and I am trying to gather as much info as I can. Am anxious to make a decision and reservations as soon as possible. Someone I met recently, told us about the Santa Maria Hotel, in Melaque, and he liked it a lot. Didn't go into a lot of detail about it though. so, if anyone knows about it, please write and tell me about it.
We are planning to fly into Manzanillo in mid-January, and staying for about 6 to 10 weeks in either Barra de Navidad or Melaque, with possibly a couple of side trips here and here. We are looking for a nice beach, (I realize that the Melaque beach is somewhat steep, how steep?) a small town, with a zócolo and a tiny bit of nightlife, with a few restaurants to try, and some music. My husband is a saxophone player and loves to play with the locals. I would be grateful for information any of you Mexico lovers out there could give me. We have a wedding to go to in Puerto Vallarta at the end of April, so looks like we will have a lot of time to fool around.
Jean Ridellab
Orcas Island, washingtonb
jjridella@rockisland.comb
October 1999
One can also bring along his tennis racket, or I guess, rent one, and play at the Hotel Cabo Blanco courts (2). You must reserve, and preferably be an early bird, otherwise, its no fun, its too hot!
See you in paradise! I am going back for sure next January 2000. Anybody knows if any celebrations are planned in Barra for the Millennium?
Paul Savard
Alias "Pablocito"
cyclovir@globetrotter.qc.ca
ICQ: 9033248
October 1999
For those trying to 'keep it a secret'' - bad news folks. The Vancouver Sun recently printed a two page spread in the weekly travel section titled 'Mexican Beach Town is an Unsung Getaway" - photographs and all! Also the Victoria 'Times Colonist' did the same spread. Written by a Los Angeles Times reporter I can only speculate that it has also been published in many other North American newspapers.
Oh well, lets all enjoy while we can still afford it! (Does anyone remember what Puerto Vallarta was like in the late 1950's and early 60's ???)
Dave Guy
DGuy@pacifica-papers.com
October 1999
We also had a bad experience at the Hotel Barra. Our room was broken into and tossed during suppertime three times in a one week period four years ago in January. Lost her purse and a little cash (about US$120.00 total value). Management at that time was aware that the hotel was experiencing security problems and we were told by one of the desk clerks that the manager knew the guilty parties but chose not to take action. On that day we checked out!
We have since been staying at the Hotel Monterrey in Melaque. It is an older but squeaky clean family run smaller(about 20 rooms) hotel - The location close to all amenities can't be beat, beach is far superior to Barra and the management couldn't be nicer. Rooms are somewhat basic but very comfortable.
Herb Feinberg
Grand Junction, Colorado
HerbnPat@aol.com
October 1999
Several have asked why the Hotel Barra de Navidad is not recommended, including the manager of the hotel.
We stayed in one of the air-conditioned rooms (there were only 6) that fronted onto the beach. Our air-conditioner lacked a grill so we had to rig an air deflector using a tray and a chair to keep the unit from sucking the cold air back onto the thermostat and turning itself off. Fortunately the air-conditioner worked well enough to compensate for the number of openings in the windows and around the air-conditioner itself that were not sealed. Workmanship in the room was decidedly poor.
Although our room fronted onto the beach, there was a security? fence that prevented us from walking out onto the beach without first passing in front of the windows of all of the other rooms that fronted onto the beach. (Our room was at the end of the hotel.) The chain link fence just stopped when you got past the rooms and you could walk around to the beach. The fence also interfered with our view of the beach.
The swimming pool is situated at the other end of the hotel. The sea breeze, which is deflected by the large hotel structure, comes around the corner and through the pool area so that swimmers experience a chill when getting out of the pool even in very warm weather. The hotel has no parking area. We parked on the street with two wheels on the sidewalk like everyone else. There are two rows of rooms, two floors high surrounding an interior courtyard. We do not like this design, because with the parallel masonry walls in this enclosed space, the sound from one noisy person can keep the entire hotel awake.
We did like the restaurant, which wasn't often open while we were there. It is upstairs with a balcony crowded with palm trees overlooking the beach. Even though they got our order wrong, we enjoyed our breakfast.
Comparing this hotel with another beachfront hotel, Hotel Royale Costa Sur in nearby Cuastecomates, we found the Royale to be somewhat cheaper (comparing air-conditioned rooms) and devoid of any of the complaints we had about the Barra de Navidad. Based on these experiences, I don't recommend the Hotel Barra de Navidad. I am not saying that the hotel should be avoided, I just think there are better options. But there are people who regularly stay at the Hotel Barra de Navidad and like it.   -Tom
Richard & Nancy Lennie
lapaloma@ciber.net.mx
La Paloma Oceanfront Retreat
October 1999
Like many of the visitor's who have left messages and provided information, Barra de Navidad has a particular resonance for me. I first visited in 1988 on a trip to the Pacific coast from Guanajato where I was studying at the time. Having been really taken by everything about the then sleepy (and still relatively so) little village (outside of the main holidays naturally), I try to visit once every two years or so, sometimes more frequently, as part of my travels through Mexico while climbing volcanoes and birdwatching (inter alia).
This brings me to a small problem: I have found it difficult to locate any good reference books/websites on Mexican ornithology. I have no doubt that they exist, and so if anyone can assist with suggestions, I would be very grateful.
On the several good places to stay in Barra, may I suggest the excellent and very friendly (and many have already attested to this it appears!) Hotel Delfin. The rooms which give onto the lagoon are excellent with vast tiled bathrooms and great views.
Have you (would you) considered putting any parochial meteorological data on the site? - this would be reassuring for those of us about to experience the dark winter days in Northern Europe and elsewhere!
I enjoyed your site and look forward to visiting again.
Mark Isaac
Pimlico, London, England
rooster@isaac200089.freeserve.co.uk
October 1999
You guys have made my month......
My guy, John, and I are wanting to get married in Barra (even though he's never been there before!) Does anyone know if the Grand Bay has a ballroom? Does anyone know if someone there will marry two non-demoninational Christinas in English and Spanish?
Hopefully someone does :) please let me know. Well I should get back to my studying. That was afterall my intentions...Viva MEXICO!
Sarah Bullock
slb6471@garnet.fsu.edu
September 1999
We have been visiting Santiago ( near Manzanillo) for the past two years and met some other Canadians on a trip to Barra who recommended Melaque and area as a possible 2-week vacation destination.
What concerns me is the March 99 Welcome to Occupied Melaque, is there now a large military garrison here and if so what has the impact been?
Also we are considering renting a car ( depending on how expensive it is ) to explore and some of the comments on this site have referred to being pulled over and paying extra to the policia?
I would appreciate hearing from you and anyone else who has up to date information on Melaque and area.
Pat
d.good@sk.sympatico.ca
September 1999
No, there isn't a large military garrison there. I think the military presence was just temporary. I haven't heard anything more about it.
Yes, sometimes the policia will extort money from tourists. This can happen anywhere in Mexico. It is not a frequent problem. Best thing to do is be patient, don't give in easily, always have small bills available (they don't make change), and don't speak very much Spanish.   -Tom
Stephen McGuire
semcguire@worldnet.att.net
September 1999
T. Hansen
THa3057081@aol.com
September 1999
Barb
BShea92586@aol.com
September 1999
We go to Barra because you just can't beat the people. We bring toys to the kids down there. This year my husband was going to drive his little VW down but I kind of got carried away with the toys so now he has to drive his truck. Is there an orphanage near there or we just best taking them to the church in Barra or Melaque or La Manzanillo? Are you from a Chamber of Commerce sort of organization for Barra or?
BShea92586@aol.com
September 1999
No, I'm just a fan like you. Marsha at Hotel Mar Vida says to contact her when you get there about the toys. She doesn't know of any orphanages close by but can connect you with plenty of needy children. -Tom
carol
caroldan1@earthlink.net
August 1999
Visit our website at www.zpesca.com for more info, or e-mail me direct at zpesca@aol.com.
Brian Wilson
General Manager
Z Pesca Sport Fishing
August 1999
Arlettaslim
arlettaslim@yahoo.com
August 1999
Frank Howard
fhoward@freenet.carleton.ca
August 1999
They were kinda busy, I guess there was about 10 cars in the parking lot, maybe 10 to 15 families. Restaurant was open all the time, breakfast is from 8-12, lunch 12-6, and dinner from 6-10pm, most breakfasts were around 23 pesos, the lunches, (shrimp,fish etc,) were around 70 pesos with a 20% discount, and super was around 35 pesos but all there was was burgers and fries. We tried several of the palapas along the beach and the food at Royale costa sur was much better , a little more expensive but better none the less. (My wife got sick after eating shrimp at one of the palapas).
If you get all/included rates, they are 555.00 per/nite for adults, and 392.00 for kids, So i guess if you are a heavy drinker and eater than the all/included is Good.
Tim West
twest@vianet.com.mx
August 1999
Wendy Randall
wrandall@yknet.yk.ca
August 1999
A couple of places that have not been mentioned much but we found great. A small restaurant in Barra called Traditions is wonderful. There is a great beach south of the Grand Hotel that is miles long and no one on it. You have to get on the highway going south for 10 or 15 miles and turn at the Grand Hotel sign, go another 5 miles and you will see paths to the beach. The Hotel Monterrey in Melaque was a lot of fun, on the beach and clean. Don't stay on the days kids go to school unless you like getting up at five, they are very loud.
I cannot speak for the rest of the year but in mid Jan. you have a great deal of choice where you can stay w/o reservations, just check places out and plan ahead a few days.
David Castor
dogdock@bigsky.net
August 1999
Thank you for putting La Paloma on your site. Richard and Nancy Lennie are fine people and have an elegant location and excellent accommodations. She is a fine watercolor artist and is a gifted teacher. Her classes are inexpensive the material is very well presented. She can make anyone into a passable artist in 'no time'.
Villas Camino del Mar now has Internet service. Email address is skennedy@ciber.net.mx.
Hotel de Legazpi now has email: legazpi@ciber.net.mx
You have used the street name Asalgado Velasco several times. It is properly Abel Salgado Velasco, but is used correctly as Abel Salgado. ( I used to live on that street.)
Far and away the most popular restaurant in Melaque is Flor Morena directly across the street from the town square, open only for dinner from 6 pm to 11 pm. One hundred percent Mexican food (no fish except shrimp pozole on Sundays). Very small, only six tables and open to the street. And very cheap, a plate of for chicken enchiladas is only 10 pesos. Their pozole is the best in town, and the locals send their kids for it with their own pots. Just as popular with the North Americans as with the Mexicans. No phone. Open all year.
A very good dinner restaurant is Koala's, owned by an Australian woman and her husband, Beverly and Bill Weston. It is on Avenida Obregon, the street that separates San Patricio from Villa Obregon. Open only during the season, from December through March, it has a limited menu of non-Mexican food, and has a great outdoor ambiance.
Los Pelícanos is now open only during the tourist season, as is Viva Maria 1910. Viva Maria serves a stuffed fish roll with almond sauce that is as good as anywhere in the world. They also make great hamburgers.
Since no one in Hotel Mallorca speaks English, Tere Smith has asked me to tell you that English language FAXES to the Hotel should be addressed ATT: TERE SMITH.
Bungalows Laguna del Tule is on Zafiro, not Abel Salgado, at the end of the block that I live on. The street Abel Salgado comes to and end two long blocks west, where the street jogs one block toward the ocean and becomes Zafiro. The owner is Fidel Diaz, who speaks excellent English.
Hotel Dorado is actually Hotel Club Nautico. Its large and beautiful palapa restaurant on the beach is named El Dorado, (and sometimes called El Piramide, from its pyramid shape).
Another good new hotel (only four beautifully appointed room rooms) is Las Palmas located on the beach at Abel Salgado 100. It is only open during the season. Telephone is 335-55385. The owner can be reached at email: dotson@hartnet.com in the off season. This is a lovely place and the owner, Larry Dotson, would no doubt be able to send you a good picture.
Alaska Airlines has just announced in today's Seattle Times that it is beginning service from the West Coast to Manzanillo in November.
I think allowing people to post notices and queries to your site is a good thing. I have been able to help a couple of people to get some of their questions answered.
Carl Young
carljoven@ciber.net.mx (when in Melaque)
carljovn@aa.net (other times)
July 1999
CARAVAN8@aol.com
Yes their is windsurfing here and rentals, The new group that took over as the server of sports equipment for the town and the Grand Bay Hotel, has everything that you can think about for renting for playing in the water.
Marsha
marsha@ciber.net.mx
Bungalows Mar Vida
July 1999
I'm back in the office this morning physically, but mentally and spiritually I'm still on the beach in Melaque.
I would like to say thanks to both of you for all the wonderful hospitality and for being such gracious and generous hosts. I've traveled to many places over the years and this trip to La Paloma easily ranks at the top of my list as one of the most relaxing and enjoyable that I have ever had. Muchas Gracias!
Mike A.
mick_3504@yahoo.com
July 1999
>
Good fishing trip in a panga from Rogelio Flores (owners of Mary Chuy) 1000 pesos for about six hours, caught half a dozen fish including a decent size (seven or eight pound) tuna-BIG, BIG waves! Lucky that we are boaters, and used to this! Super trip to Tenacatita in the Mary Chuy--about two hours each way--great seafood on the beach, very relaxing, recommended for kids too! Saw dolphin pushing dead mate out to sea-quite unusual (for me) and a bit sad.
Enjoyed walking from Barra to Melaque along the beach, getting cash at the ATM, having lunch, shopping, and catching the local dusty (but only two pesos) bus back to Barra. Super BBQ chicken from a guy in the main street who cooks it in a 45 gal drum right on the sidewalk-half chicken, rice and peppers, tortillas and sauce for 22 pesos--MORE than enough for lunch! Please don't tell anyone about this great little, friendly laid-back town, then we can keep it all to ourselves! Okay? Great site,full of good relevant info-thanks a lot!
Mike Kirkpatrick and Judy Paler
Winnipeg Canada
mikekir@gatewest.net
June 1999
I won't tell a soul. -Tom
-And how's the surf been???
Matt
lagwagon@lagwagon.pobox.stanford.edu
June 1999
Anyway, can you please tell me if the restaurant "Fortinos 2" is still in Barra? It was a great little restaurant just around the corner from Los Arcos (which is also a great place). Omar, Maria and their 2 young boys ran it and lived next door. It's been 5 years since our last visit and I have no idea if it still exists.
Viva Barra!!
Alan Barton
barton@camosun.bc.ca
June 1999
Thank you in advance. P.S. November is our best time.
D.J.Scott.
jscott@mid.igs.net
June 1999
Thank you for your inquiry, and congratulations for being the first! We just went on the web page yesterday! LA PALOMA is our own private retreat which we started building in June of 97 after living in Hawaii for twenty years in the Vacation Rental business . Retirement is a drag, so we decided to share our beautiful home and gardens. We have three accommodations for two people each (6 guests ) and are situated on the beach in San Patricio Melaque. We are 1-1/2 blocks from the post office and the main area of shopping, eating, and enjoying the real Mexico. I will refer to each unit as a studio as my wife is an artist who teaches in her own studio on the property, and you are welcome to partake! As you enter our property, you will discover a tropical paradise, for my love is gardening. It's very private, and very secure, with a 25-meter swimming pool and jacuzzi 8 feet above the beachfront, and plenty of hammocks strung between our palms just waiting for your R & R. As our guests, the whole property is yours to enjoy, and our housekeeper Isabelle might even teach you Mexican cooking! We reside here year round, so can steer you in any direction you choose. Our accommodations are as follows:
STUDIO ONE is situated privately on the second floor above our kitchen and dining room wing, has a 14x14 foot bedroom with Queen size bed, an in-suite bathroom with shower, and an 8x8 foot dry kitchen before opening on to a 14x14 foot filtered sundeck overlooking the pool and ocean! The kitchenette has a coffee maker, juicer, blender, toaster-oven, fridge, and all the housewares and dishes you'll require to prepare light meals. Our main patio by the pool has a large gas barbeque for your pleasure, and we can also arrange to prepare and serve you home cooked gourmet meals when you choose. Each studio has a television if you wish and we have a grand selection of pocketbooks, and a telephone, fax, or email for your communicating needs.
STUDIO TWO is also situated more privately from our casa on the second level of Studio Three and has a private entrance, a 15x17 foot Bedroom with two double beds, an in-suite bathroom with shower, and a full kitchen. The Ocean view is also spectacular, but set back 100 feet from the beach. The deck of Studio One is 45 feet from the beach.
STUDIO THREE is our largest with an 18x20 foot bed/sitting room, a King Sized bed, bathroom with shower, fully equipped kitchenette, large patio dining area, and a front patio accessed through sliding glass doors. It is also 100 feet to the Beach entrance with a lush green lawn in front, and is on ground level.
Each unit is freshly furnished "Rustico Mexican" and you'll feel like you're maybe in the South Pacific before you walk to town! Our property is ruled by Casey Brown, the sweetest boxer dog in our whole darn town, Three Cats, Laurel & Hardy. Squeaky, and six birds at last count!
Don't be misled by our very low first year rates! Studio One $50.00 per night, Studio Two $55.00 per night, and Studio Three $65.00 per night. Minimum stay is three nights. I'm proud to say we have the very best accommodations on the Bahía de Navidad! Yes, your dates are open, and take your choice of 1,2, or 3! A deposit of 30 percent is required when making your reservation, another 30 percent by October 1, and the balance on check-in. No refunds!
Muchas Gracios for your interest.
Richard and Nancy Lennie
lapaloma@ciber.net.mx
June 1999
Thank you.
Wendy Randall
Wendy.Randall@gov.yk.ca
May 1999
There are only two flaws that I can find with Barra 1) the spider monkey that they have caged up at the Hotel Sands and 2) the wild animals that they have at the local bar Piper's and Lover's. Hopefully those things can be changed. Overall, I LOVE BARRA!!! I am planing to go there again this summer!!
Ruby Garza
ruby_garza@hotmail.com
May 1999
Marsha at the Bungalow Mar Vida was also very helpful on tours and stuff. A great tour we had, organized through the Hotel Barra de Navidad was up to Tenacatita. Super place, good snorkeling on the north end, nice shallow beach and FABULOUS food. The Rolla del Mar was to die for. If I could make a living there I would just hole up and kiss the world goodbye.
The market was good once you got used to bartering a bit. Good prices for blankets, jewelry and carvings. Also good prices on all the food. Most expensive was a $25 CAN (150 peso) lobster dinner at Valero's where you pick the lobster and you get the whole thing , about a kilo of fabulous lobster complete with singing waiter. Tina had 18 large shrimp in garlic sauce for 100pesos. Most meals were 40-60 pesos and fine food. On the way home we found a fruit vendor selling mangoes, pineapples, oranges, grapefruits out of her truck. Got a ton of fruit for 70 pesos and picked up fresh bread from a street vendor, lasted us for three days!
Watch out for the beach Umbrella rentals at Popeye's, some folks got burned. Beach vendors are on the beach at Barra and Melaque but not a lot and very friendly. Support them, they are inexpensive prepared to barter and this is their living. They depend on tourists and it's the least you can do to support the local economy. Best on we found was Sophie, wonderful woman and small son and taught us Spanish as we shared a beer on the beach. Just like family.
Thanks for all the assists on your page Tom. Please keep updating! WE WILL BE BACK! Now if I could only figure a way to make a living down there......
Glen Dunsworth and Tina Jennissen
duny@islandnet.com
Lantzville BC
We first arrived in Puerto Vallarta, and I was hit with an uneasy feeling in my stomach. I knew right away that Vallarta was not my kind of place. I wanted to experience the real side of Mexico. Fortunately, my friends, who had been in Mexico for two months, had come across Barra de Navidad, and thought that that place would be right for us all. So we made our way there. Little did I know that I would experience the greatest feeling in the whole world-ease. We spent two weeks in Barra, and I have never felt so at home, without being at home. We were always greeted friendly, and everyone did their part to make us feel at home. Being there two weeks was not enough, and made my decision that I would be moving there in a couple of months.
I now know of a place that I can recommend to everyone, where almost everyone has something to do. Hopefully I will see you all there, enjoying the lovely scenery and smells of Barra de Navidad.
Shawna Mullen
missymullen@hotmail.com
May 1999
Food throughout the trip was excellent. Stayed at hotels on the beach. Hotel Barra de Navidad and Bogavante. Not plush and you pay a little extra for beach front (around 400 pesos) but acceptable. Might look for something else next time. Rented a car from Zepesta for one day. Went to Boca de Iguana beach (most beautiful that we saw) and saw the croc. Was told that he had consumed a few puppies recently. Nobody there but us and the proprietors of the palapa.
Went fishing one day with Zepesta. Had a great Mexican guide and took a panga. Didn't catch much but saw dolphins. A little spooky to a mountain man to be on the ocean 15 miles out in a small boat with an outboard motor. Guide carries a gps though so I guess there is no real worry.
Went to Melaque several times. Loved the market. Got a fresh pineapple for 9 pesos. Did not try the goat head which was offered, however. Saw no evidence of military in Melaque at all.
Had a contingent of the Mexico Navy next to hotel in Barra but they are not very active. Spent most of their time polishing their navy truck. Went to golf course of Grand Bay for breakfast one morning. Very very plush and very very empty. We were only ones eating and had about 5 servers. Prices not high although I was told it costs 100 dollars to play golf. Some huge yachts in the Grand Bay marina. Not much activity in the hotel itself although we did not go in. Word is that it is owned by a wealthy Mexican family from Guadalajara and that they really do not need to make money with it.
Mosquitos not too bad in the beach area but noticeable on the lagoon side.
Finally, there is a computer shop with access to the internet in Melaque in the alley on the way to Cesars and Charleys restaurant close to the main bus stop. 25 pesos for 1/2 hour.
All in all a great trip and we are going back as soon as we can.
wed@laplaza.org
April 1999
I met an elderly American who was there by herself and said that she had come the year before to visit a friend and since the Mexican people were so friendly that she didn't mind traveling and staying down there by herself. She was 78 years old and had a bicycle that she was driving around Melaque. She was so happy to be down there and said if the Americans in her hometown treated her that nice she would have stayed home. She was very nice and showed us how to get to some restaurant in Melaque that she had eaten at many times. If you can get me Gloria's telephone # I'd sure appreciate it.
BShea92586@aol.com
April 1999
Here's the info, thanks to Wendy Devlin: Gloria Diaz, APDO 139, San Patricio/Melaque, Jalisco CP48980, Mexico. Phone number in Monterrey, Nuevo León, is 835-80363. -Tom
Any info on this situation would be appreciated.
Wendy Randall
Wendy.Randall@gov.yk.ca
April 1999
Maureen
PINARES@aol.com
April 4, 1999
The driveway is just south of The Pirates' small sign. If you miss the sign, you can't miss the lagoon next to the highway. It serves as a bird sanctuary & is usually full of egrets & pelicans & ducks, etc. Drive maybe a 1/4-mile toward the beach on a quite passable (for Mexico) dirt road, & you're there! No hablas Espanol? No problema! Most of the Pirates speak some English.
Relax at a table on the beach, or stretch out in a hammock or on one of the couches in the open-air bar. The service is excellent, the view of the islands is spectacular, the beach is extremely clean, the swimming is great, & the sunsets will blow you totally away (if the margaritas don't get to you first!).
Make a margarita your first order of the day! The barman is an Indian, looks about 7 feet tall, named Arundu (whom I renamed 'our-undoing' after a few of his incredible margaritas!). The bar is fairly well stocked for a beach bar w/your basic, top-shelf potables: Johnny Walker, Absolut, Herradura, etc., as well as ice-cold cervezas & sodas. Arundu also doubles as the deejay, playing a wide range of music from traditional Mexican to techno-pop, Sinatra to the Stones, and classic rock favorites such as U2, Pink Floyd, the Doors, & more. If you don't hear what you want, ask!
Bring your appetite! The food is unique, world-class, & made to order, not to mention reasonably priced. Chef Juan Carlos does things with fresh shrimp, lobster, scallops & fish that make many restaurants seem as exciting & predictable as McDonalds. Salsa & the ceviche are a must!
For a little romance, every night they build a huge bonfire & at least a billion stars are visible from the beach. Plenty of room to pitch a tent on the beach, too, just south of the bar. I don't know the fee, if any, but the RESTROOMS ARE CLEAN & convenient. Since I was there this past February, I understand they're adding a dive shop, too.
Whether you're day-tripping from Barra or Puerto Vallarta or looking for a place to relax for a couple of days, The Pirates is a MUST! I spent two weeks visiting a friend who lives in Emiliano Zapata (a small village on Highway 200 most notable for its numerous topes [speed bumps] & the gift shop Novedades de Victoria), & spent at least seven of those days with The Pirates.
Jane Gorby
jane.gorby@gte.net
March 1999
The Mexican government has decided to install a 2000-man army garrison in Melaque. Ostensibly, it's to "provide protection and assistance" during civil disasters such as floods and earthquakes. In reality, it's to stem the alleged importation of illegal drugs and the fostering of illegal ideas. The Zedillo government recently eliminated the government subsidy for tortillas, causing the most basic food of the Mexican diet to more than double in cost. A number of other Mexican staples have experienced meteoric rises in the last few months; gasoline, which used to be quite cheap, is now approaching $1.80 U.S. per gallon. This has resulted in predictable grass roots outrage. Since the government is not interested in a repeat of the events in Chiapas, it is taking pre-emptive measures.
Military helicopters spent much of January and February swooping low over the beaches of Melaque, buzzing sunbathers and disrupting the traditional tranquility of the town. It was a bit too reminiscent of other military actions we all know and love. Mexican army and navy troops are now conspicuous in the streets of Melaque, their trucks zig-zagging through the village for no apparent reason. But most disconcerting -- and downright ominous -- is the sight of a dozen uniformed 18-year-olds with Uzis marching up and down the heretofore peaceful beaches. Those of us familiar with the histories of "banana republics" know these guys aren't there for *our* protection.
There has never been a criminal element in Melaque. It is not a haven for drug smugglers. Even petty theft is somewhat unusual there. But when you dump 2000 armed troops into a tiny town of Melaque's size you will have problems. Not the least of which is the impact of their very presence.
It will not be the same.
Jef Jaisun
http://www.halcyon.com/eljefe/
eljefe@halcyon.com
March 1999
Whether you're on a backpacker's budget or sky's the limit, Melaque is one of those places that sucks you in, makes you stay 3 or 4 days... or months in some cases, and economically allows you to do so. We stayed in a hotel for $13 US per night right on the beach (I believe it's called Santa Maria, I was so relaxed I don't even remember) almost at the half way point in between Barra and Melaque. The young couple keeps their rates the same year round therefore pretty much keeping busy. They ended up having to kick us out because they had a large group reserved to occupy the entire place. Not a problem. I was grateful for the time we spent and will return. I noticed a lot of "Se Vende" signs on properties. If anyone has any information on who to mail for details please let me know. Next time I go, I might not leave.
Meredith Schwarz Rojas
m_schwarz52@hotmail.com
March 1999
[For information on property, you can contact Marsha at the Mar Vida in Barra de Navidad. -Tom]
Week later we took the Primera Plus bus from their depot in Santiago to Barra and stayed at the Hotel Delfín...absolutely delightful and spotless little place in a great location, just a block or so from everything. Priced at 290 pesos for 2 people, has nice little pool, no A/C just fans, very nice view of the Barra Lagoon. Suggest rooms on 3rd or 4th floors (best view). Somewhat noisy if your a light sleeper, maybe take earplugs. Best buffet breakfast in town (29 pesos!). Old Hotel Sands directly across the street was once the high spot of Barra, looking very tired now, but still promoted in several guide books. The Delfín is the hands down choice for this part of town! Will be there next year if everything goes well.
Scott Morrison
smn@bmts.com
February 1999
Cheryl Halkyard
selltile@netcom.ca
January 1999
Mauricio Reyes
firerate@hotmail.com
January 1999
We moved a few blocks away to the El Marques Hotel [photo 31K] where the price was 330 pesos,and stayed for 6 days. The hotel had a small swimming pool and was downtown. A very large bright room, no A/C, with ceiling fan which was adequate. The staff was very friendly and obliging. The room was spotlessly clean and large with 2 double beds, a huge shower stall with plenty of hot water, and the hotel is extremely well maintained. My wife and I would highly recommend this hotel.
A return trip to the area is a priority for us, and a longer stay is certain.
Peggy at Crazy Cactus was great to rent a car from, she has 2 for rent @US$60 per day.
K&P of Canada.
b_juarez87@hotmail.com
January 1999
Since I wrote the series, Walking the walk which ran monthly on the http://www.mexconnect.com site last year, I have received approximately ten e-mails a month asking for specific information about the Barra de Navidad/Melaque area. That's about 100 e-mails or more! I answer each one personally and often refer and link them to your site.
During my last month's trip I researched some internet connections before going and looked up the people when I arrived in the area. This involved spending time with Susan Dearing, the authoress of, Manzanillo and Colima, Facts, Tips and Daytrips. and scuba instructor/business woman. Through her, I experienced many of the delights of the area and I will be writing a story for her especially regarding her efforts to promote an ecologically aware tourism in her area.
I also made a tour aboard the Research Vessel, ATLANTIS while it docked in the port, courtesy of another internet connection. In addition, I visited Guadalajara and Laguna Chapala, again, meeting with internet friends from my visit there last February. My stay with two of my teens in Melaque, my hikes, day-trips and experiences with old friends and new will hopefully be featured on Mexconnect over this next year.
Overall, I just wish you to know that I have a long-standing commitment to Mexico and her people and I try always to foster a positive cultural exchange. My stories attempt to promote visits to Mexico and to dispel fears and prejudices. Hence the writing of my stories reflects what I feel that I have experienced and learned and hope to share. So all that being said, please let me know if I can assist you in any way. Perhaps you would wish to provide a link from your site to my name or articles on the Mexconnect site. Hope to 'talk' with you again.
Wendy Devlin
wdevlin@prcn.org
http://www.mexconnect.com
http://www.prcn.org
January 1999
We checked the beaches and towns out from Chamela Bay to Cuyutlan. The playa north of Tenacatita to Rio Purification was the most interesting because of the fish I saw. There were 4-foot long needlefish and large roosterfish surfing the wave crests, and mighty waves they were! I was not prepared for surf fishing and the small steelhead rig that I brought would not cast beyond the crests unless I was willing to take a pounding from an 8-foot wave crashing against a 45-degree beach! The 18-foot alligator at Boca de Iguanas is actually a 2 & 1/2 meter ' crocodilia"; we saw it when the "seas became angry" and the tide cut us off from the road out for three days. Water filled the lagoon and the critter came out of the mangroves.
As for Enrigue, he was an excellent guide. I wanted to fish light tackle only and we caught dorado, yellowtail and (jacks??) trolling the birds and casting. Once while fishing just a few yards from the big rock off the headland, I was fishing my twelve pound bass baitcast rod and Enrique my ten pound spinning rod. We were casting purple and black Cousin Joe's steelhead jigs (Enrique's choice from the lures that I brought) into surface feeding (jacks??) of one half to three pounds. Strikes were fast and furious. I had just reeled in without a strike and as I moved toward the other side of the panga, Enrique handed me his rod and indicated I should take up the slack and set the hook.
What a surprise, the drag began screaming and 30 yards off the boat a huge(to me) sailfish shot out of the swell crest. And it continued to jump out of the wave top for six or seven jumps. Enrique cried "pez vela!" He chased the fish as I raised and pumped and we both laughed and shouted at the jumps, runs and soundings. This went on for well over thirty minutes. Several times Enrique ask about the line test, "cinco kilo?, ten pound?" He said the fish was treinta kilo. I thought the fight was over when the fish slowly came to the boat as I pumped, darn near exhausted. I said, " I got him!!" and Enrique shook his head with a "no." Just then the sail rolled on his side about eight feet from the boat and looked at me with that fierce eye and "scream" it was on again. This time he reached the ground swell crest about forty yards out and jumped only three times. He tried a forth but fell backwards..... on the line which had no heavy leader to withstand rough fish bills. That was that, but no disappoint for me. What a great fishing experience.
You may guess that I had enjoyed fishing with Enrique. I would recommend him to anyone and I would recommend Barra de Navidad.
Leonard Ross
leonardh@clarkston.com
January 1999
For example, let's say you're driving along the coastal area of Jalisco in a rented car. The cops will pull you over and make up some excuse for you to hand over some money. The reason for this is because the cops are aware that the people usually driving a rented car have money and that they're tourists so that's a good chance to make them hand over some good cash. Another thing you notice of being a great risk especially in Barra is being held hostage for your money. This works with the cops being aware of it and not doing nothing about it. The whole point is that it's making lots of tourists not want to go to Mexico anymore. And if you're a first time traveler to the Barra area you must be very aware.
Thank you and I enjoyed your web page--very much good work!
Martin Reyes Jr.
kidfanatsy@aol.com
December 1998
Actually, this is the first I have heard of trouble with police in Barra. Anyone else have problems?
Tom
Another nice addition is (2) rental cars at the Crazy Cactus. These are available for daily rental..$55 dollars..Ricky at Z Pesca does and excellent job arranging a quality fishing trip. I also like the independent guide Enrique Figueroa in panga "Irma 1." He has a good boat, motor, and fishing gear.. cost $25-$20 per hour.. room to work price depending on number of trips.. Z Pesca is a similar charge.
Bill McNair
jerrys@roguejets.com
December 1998
Hank Rudin
PO 1776
Onset, MA 02558
hveer@aol.com
November 1998
It possible to go there without a reservation ahead of time except for Christmas and Easter. It is a big favorite vacationing spot for Mexican families from the cities. Also there is a local fiesta for San Patricio around March 17th and I imagine it would be busy there. Melaque is the kind of place that fills up a little for most weekends and empties considerably by Sunday night.
To get there by taxi from the airport towards Manzanillo takes approx. twenty minutes and costs, about 200 pesos $20 US last February l998.
To get to Tenacatita you can easily take one of the frequent buses going towards Puerto Vallarta and get off at the Tenacatita sign (Km.28) just south of the Rio Purificación bridge. It would be easy to catch a local ride down to the village of Rebalcito 3,7 miles or the beach at 5.4 miles. Bruce Whipperman's book The Pacific Coast Mexico Handbook states that a single Transportes Cihuatlán bus makes one run a day between Rebalcito and Manzanillo. (inquire locally at the Melaque bus station) It is also easy to catch a frequent bus and approach the area from Puerto Vallarta after a 3-1/2 hour bus trip for $12 Am
As for needing to speak Spanish, of course it is a big help to try but most of the people in the services at Melaque speak a little English. If you wish to get a sense of my own personal experiences there, check out my stories on the http://www.mexconnect.com site dedicated to cross-cultural exchange with Mexico.
A new story goes up every month about Melaque and area on the right-hand side bar under my name, Wendy Devlin in the series called "Walk the Walk" or you can find all of my previous stories to the site under my name on the author's index.
Hopefully the articles will inform you while they entertain! All of the best.
Wendy Devlin
wdevlin@prcn.org
http://www.mexconnect.com
http://www.prcn.org
October 1998
Thanks to anyone who can answer these questions
Sarah
seswoo@nexicom.net
October 1998
Cheers,
James
jpelmore@mail.istar.ca
October 1998
No problem though, just drive north to Tenacatita for more tranquil waters and very cheap snapper (huachinango) and beers. I recommend exploring the swamps immediately surrounding Barra. There are some great opportunities to see wildlife (egrets, crocodiles, etc) and beautiful vegetation. That part of the coast is more arid than around Puerto Vallarta, but there is a river delta of sorts that empties into the sea near Barra and creates a very lush, tropical riparian zone. San Patricio Melaque is worth a visit but a little less appealing than Barra in my opinion. Barra is very laid back, so leave your anal retentiveness at home and have a wonderful visit.
Brad Purdy
bpurdy@puc.state.id.us
October 1998
I would also be pleased to be a regular contributor to your web site, since I have spent 11 years on the Pacific coast of Mexico, 3 in P.V. and 8 here in Manzanillo.
Susan Dearing
scubamex@delfin.colimanet.com
July 1998
I have made many a run into Guadalajara to meet people at the airport, then run to the bus station for the overland. Long had I noticed a really nice looking hotel right across from the bus terminal called El Parador. I had never stayed there as it appeared to be expensive. However, on my last trip through, since I had been on the stand-by list in Dallas all day, I went ahead and grabbed a room there rather than going downtown as is my usual custom. To my surprise, I found that a double there was only $215 pesos or about $24.00 U.S. The room was small but well-appointed: TV, phone, etc. The restaurant is open 24 hours, and the breakfast buffet was fabulous! The place has two pools, laundry service, and a very attentive staff. Give it a whirl next time you're blowing through Mexico's Second City!
Suchitlán   We decided to rent a car and make a run to the volcano near Colima this time around. Despite the seasonal rains, this is a gorgeous, must-do type of thing. While in the town of Suchitlan, under the shadow of the volcano, as it were, we came across one of the most unusual restaurants I've seen in a long while. The name is Los Portales de Suchitlán. From the outside, it looks like a typically small, grubby rural eatery. But as one enters, it just keeps going back and back and back. The dining area is part indoors, part out. Towards the back, it fades into a playground area on the edge of the high-mountain jungle growth. There are three sets of ultra-clean restrooms, and these too are progressively larger as one goes towards the rear. The food is excellent and very varied - from superb conejos (rabbit) to excellent puntas de filete (cut-up steak) to wonderful chiles rellenos and a very good mole. Service was also quite good and the prices far lower than on the coast. Prices for entree were rarely over $25p (about $2.70 US). And once you're done, it's but a short drive to the national forest way up at San Antonio...
John Williams
Sharkyedie@aol.com
August 1998
Tom Visits La Barra
Just returned from a 1-week trip to the Barra de Navidad area. Flew Aeromar from San Antonio with a stop in Guadalahara in one of their ATR 42's, a 44-seat twin propjet. Got tickets through Vista World Travel. Got pesos by withdrawing with a bank card at the Banamex in Cihuatlán, a few kilometers northwest of the Manzanillo airport.
Stayed the first night at the Hotel Caribe, which is only $11 U.S., but missed having air-conditioning as it is rather hot here in July and August. Visited with the Fox's--they're planning to spend some of the off season back in the states soon.
The next two nights we stayed in Boca de Iguanas at the Hotel Boca de Iguanas. Despite its proximity to the lagoon, we didn't have much problem with mosquitoes at the hotel or its restaurant. The owner/operators were very friendly and the room was only $13 U.S. There are two other restaurants, Restaurant Boca de Iguanas and Restaurante El Jardin de Eden. We ate at the latter and enjoyed the food and the friendly folks that ran the place. Mosquito repellant was a necessity here though. Besides these establishments, there are 2 camping/trailer parks and a very nice beach. The beach is wide and gently sloping, great for kids. Tried to go snorkeling but found it too difficult to get past the surf. The settlement is occasionally visited by an 18' crocodile. This is a protected animal and is driven back into the lagoon when he appears. My wife was disappointed that we didn't get to see him.
Stayed one night at the Hotel Royale Costa Sur in Cuastecomates, and what a find! This hotel was built during the Salinas administration but has experienced noticeable decay. However, the grounds are beautiful, the rooms comfortable and air-conditioned, and the staff friendly and attentive. There is a large pool with swim-up bar, tennis court, and a tranquil 300-yd long beach set back in a sheltered bay that also hosts several restaurant palapas. Snorkeling is fair around the rocks at the hotel end of the beach. The bay is a good dive site. This being the off season, there were few guests at the hotel. We tried the hotel restaurant but found it locked. One of the staff noticed us and unlocked the restaurant and summoned the cook who was delighted to prepare dinner for his only two customers. The menu is short but the food was good and amazingly inexpensive, $10 U.S. bought 2 seafood dinners, guacamole appetizer, with 2 cervezas and 2 sodas. A double is $39 U.S.; all rooms have an ocean view; highly recommended.
Stopped in Melaque to get some more pesos from their money machine and then walked into the nearby Hotel Monterrey for a bite to eat. Not receiving service and noticing the Restaurante Ceasar's y Charlie's right next door, we moved over and enjoyed excellent service and food with an Italian influence. Lots of flavor. Come to think of it, this is the second time I have done this. Ceasar's y Charlie's does not front onto the street so the best way for me to tell you to find it is to walk into the Hotel Monterrey's beach patio area and take a right.
We tried to visit Tecuán but they were filming a movie there and wouldn't let us in.
We drove inland on Hwy 80 to Autlán, a 2-hour drive through some mountainous country which was beautifully green due to the recent rains. Autlán is a maze of somewhat narrow one-way and two-way streets with little available parking. Fortunately, all this can be avoided by taking the highway bypass which skirts the city to the east. You'll see signs leading to Motel Autlán which has clean, comfortable rooms for $25 U.S. Ceiling fans, hot water, pool, enclosed parking. The restaurant is good but is open-air and has flies. We just sprayed our tablecloth with insect repellant.
We returned to Barra de Navidad and stayed at the Hotel Barra de Navidad in one of their air-conditioned rooms (most are not) for $43 U.S. Not recommended.
We spent the last two nights in one of the 5 bungalows at the Mar Vida. These have 1 king size (but short like typical Mexican beds) and 2 twin size beds, a kitchen with fridge, range/oven, coffee maker, utensils, dining area, TV, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, pool, tables outside. They go for $29 U.S. for 2 people, $38 for 4. The bungalows were well constructed with more attention to detail than is typical in Mexico. Owner, Marsha, speaks English and is interested in the internet although it is not available in Barra. She also operates a copy/fax service from a small building on the premises. Highly recommended
On the other side of the street is Restaurant Los Arcos. It's a Mom & Pop establishment with friendly service, good beef, inexpensive. Recommended.
We did a lot of shopping around town. Noticed that a little shop next to the dentist has much better prices on some items.
Tom Penick
The Pacific Coast of Oaxaca, Mexico
tom@tomzap.com
Believe me, it's inexpensive and fun. There's showers and toilets too!!! Try it and you'll enjoy it.
Sincerely
Agustina Sacerdote
290750@vianet.com.mx
May 29, 1998
Barra de Navidad and Melaque We recently returned from 2 weeks in Melaque and had a great time. We took the bus down from Puerto Vallarta. The Primera Plus cost us 85 pesos each and was air-conditioned, bathroom, movies, and even included a bagged lunch. We decided to get off in Melaque instead of Barra and stayed for the first week at the Hotel de Legazpi. The hotel was nice, clean, had large rooms with 2 double beds and a refrigerator. The hotel also has a great pool and some of the longer term residents there get together to play poker a couple of times a week.
We spent a lot of our time at the palapa called Los Pelicanos, which was almost right in front of our hotel. Ramone is still working there and is a great host. He was one of the highlights of our trip. Los Pelicanos has a new owner Rosa, who is a real sweetheart and took really good care of us (drove me to a doctor's etc, when my son got sick).
We were there for the Santa Patricio celebration and Los Pelicanos had a great party all day for the blessing of the boats. Many sailboaters came in to spend the day at Los Pelicanos as I guess this is a yearly tradition. The whole week of St. Patricio was a lot of fun with fireworks every night in the town square and other things going on. We could have done without the cannon that seemed to go off every couple of hours up until 2:00 am and then started again at 7:00 am.
We found the people in Melaque very friendly and warm. It was kind of like being in the small town we come from where people say hi (hola) to strangers on the streets.
For the second week we moved over to the hotel called Los Orientales. It included 2 bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom and TV for about $30 CAN a night. Both hotels were fine, we just wanted to check out the other end of town for a while.
We did spend some time in Barra. It is much more touristy (although still not really touristy) and is cleaner and has much more shopping. We preferred the quiet tranquillity of Melaque though so stayed there and just took the bus over to Barra once in a while. We ate at the SeaMaster Palapa in Barra and their Rollo Seamaster was fantastic (fish stuffed with a cream sauce with shrimp and wrapped in bacon). The seafood crepes at Viva María in Melaque where awesome and the fried squid at Los Pelicanos was amazing. We spent one day at Tenacatita and there was great snorkeling and great food at the palapas (very cheap).
We were sad to leave Melaque and being back in Puerto Vallarta was not near so enjoyable, plus the cost of everything was almost double (if not more for food). We would recommend this area for anyone who doesn't want to party but enjoys some quiet relaxing days on a great beach with wonderful people and good food.
We will definitely be going back. If anyone is going there, please pop in to Los Pelicanos and say hi to Ramone and Rosa for us.
Wendy and Don
kdfnjust@yknet.yk.ca
Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada
April 1998
I also stayed at Boca de Iguanas and at Tenacatita, and I visited La Manzanilla. I especially liked Boca with its palm-fringed beach, but the beach at Tecuan is one of the most beautiful I've ever seen...a lagoon separated from a Pacific bay by a big sand dune, a desert-like beach that goes for miles. But the real find for me was Bahía Chamela, the next bay north of Bahía Tenacatita. I hung out for a week at a little fishing town called Perula. Makes Barra look like a metropolis. Two inexpensive and lovely places to stay, a couple restaurants serving simple ranchero-type food and super-fresh seafood. I met many of the local people, and it was a very rich experience. Watched the sun set on the banks of a river that runs out into the bay...fantastic bird life, magic light on the desert hills, silhouettes of cactus...very Carlos Casteñeda. I felt very lucky to see this area, so close to PV, before it gets discovered.
Thanks again, Tom, for being a friend to the off-the-beaten-path traveler.
Joan
martoraj@erols.com
April 1998
C.B. Chisam & Ruben Nunez
cbandnunez@laguna.com.mx
March 1998
I'm pleased to say that we managed to leave the sea-side town of Melaque, in order to meet over the course of 4 days with one of my first internet friends, Luis Dumois and his wife and two children in Guadalajara. It is a happy fact that in our world, we can use this medium to get to "know" each other over internet time and then to possibly meet , to be delighted with each other's company in real time. It happened to us!
So for the moment, I'm busy un-packing and re-adjusting to "civilian" life but I hope to write you all again soon. I have a great many new tales to tell and look forward to hearing some of yours in the near future.
Wendy
wdevlin@prcn.org
February 1998
Tim
Skyking574@aol.com
February 1998
We stayed at the Bogavante [photo 17K], which was an OK hotel, but they charged a couple of Canadians a six percent surcharge, because they paid with a credit card, which I thought was a bit outrageous. My father in law is one of the old gringos that hang out at Felix's, so we spent a lot of time sitting out there drinking beer and listening to the blues sung by a fellow that lives upstairs from Felix. All in all, it was a wonderful time and my family and I can't wait to get back, there was more to do than we could do in one week. I would have to say that Barra is probably the best kept secret in Mexico.
Jim
kalamazoo, mi
jwilkey@kalamazoo.net
February 1998
After about a half hour this older Mexican man and small child walked up and the man asked for the 30 pesos rental fee so I handed him the money.I was a little skeptical because each of the three days a different person had approached me for the fee. I thought that well since the kid was there he was probably legit. The previous day a little boy about 10 years old asked me for the fee, and then I watched him walk up the steps to the Monterrey Hotel where I learned later that the man who is collecting the money is supposedly sitting all day and watching the tables and chairs. Well about two hours after the man collected my money, he returned and asked for the money again and I told him that I paid him earlier but he insisted that I did not and since I would not pay him a second time he removed all the chairs from the table and folded down the umbrella. He was a real nasty old guy!
So I found out who the owner was and complained. The owner did not want to do anything about it and only said she was sorry. The owner runs a small shop in front of the hotel. She said her employee told her that I had been there for two days and had not paid any money which was total bullshit. They do not give out any receipts so you have no way of proving that you paid. I was told the collector has a list to keep track of payments though he was not carrying it when he approached me. When the owner told me that I must have paid the wrong person she had a smirk and almost thought it was funny. I had the turismo guy there when I talked to her he was of no help.
Besides that I had a great time in Melaque.
cufflink@ccsi.com
February 1998
The water's been a bit warm this year for facilitating whale watching we're still at 80F - but even a blind hog roots up an acorn once in a while. We were on our way to Las Monitas, just passing El Ranchito, when a mother sperm whale and calf appeared near our boat! Needless to say, we spent the next hour in leisurely circles around the pair until they finally sounded. We decided to do our dives at El Ranchito and were not disappointed. This site consists of a number of large boulders in heaps with some pretty nice coral growth. Lots of shells. Max depth is around 65 feet, so it's great for less experienced divers. But the whales didn't return by the time we finished the dive...
Las Monitas, near the entrance to the Cuastacomates cove, is another spectacular site for divers who don't mind a little surge. Near the cliff face are some monster rocks dropping from the surface to as deep as 60 feet. From there the boulder-strewn bottom slopes steeply to 100+ feet. Viz is usually even better than Los Moros de Cuastacomates. Life is fantastic, and the shelling is among the very best.
Just beneath the lighthouse on Isla de Navidad is a large rock called El Viejo. About a half click out from El Viejo is a lone rock, the name of which I have been thus far unable to determine - so I call the site El Faro. This is my favorite dive, albeit one I can only do with experienced divers. It drops straight down to 120 feet through the thickest schools of Amberjack and Rainbow Runners I've seen around here. The current really rocks during this part of the dive. The wall is covered with the much-sought Cayo clams the ones you need a tire tool to remove from their anchorages. We have yet to do this dive without seeing big green Morays - often swimming free in broad daylight! And the distance from shore makes this a very likely spot for big pacific palagics.
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
January 1998
Everyone says in disbelieve "what the heck is going on?, aren't you going to order a Guinness ??", to which he retorts "nah, if you guys aren't going to drink beer then neither am I".
For Butch and Constance and John and of course Michael. Alysia and I wanted to once again thank you all for your kindness and hospitality.
Hasta Luego!
William Caryl
carlacap@astreet.com
January 1998
Dianne Christy
dianne@siu.edu
January 2, 1998
John Dewane
St. Joseph, Michigan
jedgoblu@qtm.net
December 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
December 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
December 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
December 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
December 1997
Actually, the rock scene in Mexico is quite vibrant right now. The Chilangos really have a good selection of bands to see on any given night in the old D.F. One band in particular, El Tri, is amazing not in the least because they've not swept the US off its feet! Alex, their leader, stole everybody's licks so long ago he thinks he invented them! And some of them he may have - they've been together over 30 years, after all! His lyrics are funny and highly political, just like rock is supposed to be. I'll not rave about Mana - their records DO sell in the US and for good reason. But I will sing loudly the praises of one Alejandra Guzman. Mellissa Ethredge has nothing on this woman's skills! And if any of you guys ever see her latest CD cover, you WILL want to lick her tattoo! If any of my readers know Doug Sahm better than I do - or Flaco or Freddy or Augie, for that matter - how about butting a bug in their ear: a package show with El Tri and Alejandra Guzman joining the Texas Tornado to play San Antonio, El Paso, Guadalajara, Mexico City, and Monterrey. The Tornados' sales in Mexico would skyrocket as would Tri and Alejandra sales in the US. Just a thought...
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
December 1997
Better yet, I went north and stayed in the town of La Manzanilla. A room at the Puesto del Sol, cost the same as the hotel Jalisco, and the former offered the use of their downstairs kitchen - a 300 sq. ft room with writing table, dressers, and four chairs cost me a little over five dollars a night - not bad considering that the hotel is located about 100' from the water on Tenacatita Bay! My daily budget for food and lodging? Ten dollars!
¡Salud y Saludos!
David Eidell
info@panamtours.com
PAN AMERICAN MOTOR TOURS
http://www.panamtours.com/
Well, earlier this week, rent became due. Brandon scammed two Canadian girls for $2,000p. promising to find them an apartment. He scammed two middle-aged gringos for $4,300p, promising to get them body parts to repair their van. Then he went to Coach Charlie, said he was going to "detail" his 1990 Aerostar van. He loaded up wife Eva, three year old son Jerry, and the landlord's big screen TV into the van and disappeared.
The shock was that the restaurant was a gold mine. Overhead was being more than covered just by the bar; the food was gravy! But the near-universal response to the betrayal has been that the blow of losing an ideal hang-out was even worse than the loss of the money. We can only hope that the next owner will keep it an ideal spot for the expatriate crowd. Sigh.
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
November 14, 1997
Tenacatita jungle/snorkel/fishing cruises are a bit pricey because of the distance from La Barra. We will take up to four for $250.00US and add up to two more for $25.00 each. The price includes use of professional quality snorkeling equipment; an English-speaking guide - probably me or Mike - ; sodas and beer; fishing tackle; all on a first-class panga. Give us a call to make a reservation! 011-52-335-5-63-90, extension 4303
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
November 8, 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
November 8, 1997
Edie Dragoun
sharkyedie@aol.com
November, 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
November 8, 1997
For you fellow cheapskates, try restaurante Balcon de Diana. 13 peso Comida de Corrida. Good food located on the last street before you get to the canals.
Restaurante Villano [photo] is a great place for the dirty old gringo in the party/ The food is good and the three little girls serving it are a treat for the eyes!
Restaurante Paty on the main drag through town is inexpensive and features BBQ chicken and carne asada as well as fresh roasted potatoes off the grill.
Ramon's, across from Hotel Barra de Navidad, is slightly more expensive - and worth it! He had the restaurant in the hotel until this location became available. Since he moved, the hotel actually had to close its restaurant - as his superior cooking took away all their business! Try the chicken-fried steak and finish off with flan.
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
October 1997
John Williams
Barra de Navidad
September 1997